Easter in the East Neuk



Easter chick



Are you lucky enough to be in or around the East Neuk of Fife this Easter holiday? If so, here's a selection of six local events to keep you and your family busy:

1. AN ENTIRE FESTIVAL DEVOTED TO CHOCOLATE - The Cocoa Tree cafe and shop in Pittenweem is running a Grand Festival of Chocolate, which is inspired by the best selling book Chocolat. This is my kind of festival! It includes a Grand Chocolate Treasure Hunt (throughout the festival - to enter the prize draw the deadline is 6pm on Easter Sunday), a Full Moon "Chocolat" Film Party (Wednesday 27 March 7pm), The Grand Chocolate Fayre and Weem Witch Tours (Thursday 28 March), The Grand Good Friday Dinner (Friday 29 March), Grand Finale of the Treasure Hunt and Raffle (Sunday 31 March 6pm) and finally Chocolate Workshops (Monday 1 April 10-12 children and 1-4 adults). (To reserve a space for any of these events contact sophie@thecocoatreeshop.com.)

2. FIND THE EASTER EGGS - Classic Easter weekend fun for the kids - join the Easter Egg Trail at National Trust Scotland's Kellie Castle (Saturday 30 March and Sunday 31 March 12-4, £2 per child).

3. PACK THE KIDS OFF FOR SOME FUN IN THE WOODS - Cambo Estate, Kingsbarns is running a one week Easter Woodland Club for children aged 6-13 (1-5 April or 8-12 April, 10am-4pm each day, £125 per week). The Club is all about having fun in the woods. It includes activities like building a den, cooking on the fire, making wooden things, playing games and watching wildlife (to book contact Chris Childe 01337 830621, chris.childe_education@yahoo.co.uk).

4. RACE A DUCK - On Easter Saturday (30 March, 10.30am) you can watch or even take part in the A.I.A. (Anstruther Improvements Association) annual duck race at the Dreel Burn in Anstruther. Everyone floats rubber ducks down the stream and the owner of the lucky winning duck wins a prize. Ducks cost £1 and can be bought in advance or on the day. Should be lots of fun!

5. SEE SOME ART - Pittenweem's famous arts festival doesn't kick off until August but Easter marks the annual Pittenweem Artists and Galleries weekend, when many of this very arty village's residents open their studies to show new work. Venues are open Friday 29 - Sunday 31 March (10am-5pm or 11am-4pm for the new ART@47 gallery space). Look out for the poster on the door.


Arty Pittenweem

6. RENACT THE COLD WAR (?) - For a slightly unusual Easter experience, Scotland's Secret Bunker will be having a re-enactment over Easter (Friday 29 - Sunday 31 March) with real Army soldiers at the gate to greet you, vehicle displays around the grounds and patrolling underground in the bunker in their full attire, complete with weapons for authenticity. The Bunker was the secret underground hideaway where Scotland's elite would have gone in the event of a nuclear attack in the Cold War era. It was kept secret, hiding below a farmhouse for 40 years. Today it's a unique tourist attraction.



Whatever you're doing this Easter I hope you have a great time! If you know of any other great East Neuk Easter events please share them by leaving a comment. Right, I'm off to get stuck into some Easter eggs now...



First signs of Spring at Rose Cottage!



Text and Photos Copyright Sara Scott 2013

5 great things to do in the East Neuk right now

Do you think that February/ March is not a good time to holiday in Scotland? Think again - there's lots to do at this time of year in the East Neuk of Fife. Here are 5 ideas:

1. CATCH THE SNOWDROPS IN BLOOM - you may have missed the Snowdrops by Starlight event but the famous snowdrops at the Cambo Estate are still making an appearance by daylight and they are gorgeous! The sheer volume of them creates a lovely effect, especially alongside the Cambo burn. The unusual varieties near the house are also worth a look for their delicate perfection (there are over 350 varieties of snowdrops at Cambo). You can also buy snowdrops from the plant shop in the hope of recreating Cambo at home (I'm not known for my survival rate with plants so let's see how my efforts in the Rose Cottage garden go!).

Kids love to see the Cambo piglets as well and I must admit I did too - they have bags of energy, charging about, play fighting and eating.  (Cambo Estate, Near Kingsbarns; Open daily 10-5)



Piglets at Cambo

2. BUY LOCAL - have yourself a cheese board with the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheddar and Anster Red cheeses from the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company. The shop there also has quality Scottish produce such as the posh, award-winning Summer Harvest rapeseed oil, which I suppose is Scotland's answer to olive oil (from £4). We took some of this to dinner with friends and it got plaudits for being something different, with a nice smoothness and subtlety, for dipping bread into. There's also a tearoom at the cheese farm where you can enjoy homemade cheese scones, cheese toasties, cakes etc, while enjoying the views over the fields and out to the Isle of May. It's a nice child-friendly place for lunch or a daytime snack in the country, with the chance to learn about how the cheese is made. (St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company, Falside Farm, Near Anstruther & Pittenweem; Tel: 01333-312580)

 



Ratatouille & goats cheese tart Fresh basil & pine nut pesto

3. EAT LOCAL FOOD AT THE PITTENWEEM INN - R and I recently tried this family-run restaurant out for the first time and we were impressed. Chef Brian Murphy does great things with fresh, seasonal local produce, including a weekly market menu. Prices are reasonable, service is friendly, the dining room inviting (with local art on the walls) and the atmosphere nice and informal. My mouth still waters when I look at this picture of the appetising goats' cheese starter from the a la carte menu (OK all this talk of cheese is really making me hungry now!). If you haven't been yet, you definitely owe it to your taste buds to pay a visit ASAP. (Pittenweem Inn, 42 Charles Street, Pittenweem; Tel: 01333 311326, Thu-Sun only)

4. PUT A LITTLE BIRDHOUSE IN YOUR SOUL - Susie Lacombe at the Crail Gallery has made a new batch of birdhouses shaped like historic Crail houses for 2013 (£40 each). I was lucky enough to be in the Gallery when she was painting them (with Farrow and Ball paint no less) so I even got to have a say in the design process of mine! Susie told me that birds look for a mate round about Valentine's day so now is definitely the time to do your bit for birdlife and put a birdhouse in your garden. Speaking of birds, daily boat trips from Anstruther to the Isle of May kick off for 2013 on 29 March, so it will soon be puffin-spotting season. (Crail Gallery, High Street, Crail; Tel: 01333 450316; Open 10-5 Mon-Sat & 12-5 Sun)



5. ENJOY A UNIQUE EVENT - Go to Scotland's only regular poetry festival - StAnza in St Andrews (6-10 March). It's international in outlook and was founded 15 years ago. Then there's the Fife Science Festival, also in St Andrews, at venues including the Castle and University (15-25 March). You could also plan ahead by booking tickets for the ninth East Neuk Festival (3-7 July) now before the events sell out. The Scotsman newspaper said the festival "promises more big names in intimate surroundings...so book ahead". I'm looking forward to experiencing it for the first time this year. For more details on these and other events see the Events page of this blog.

Like I said, lots to do so what are you waiting for?

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2013.





Valentine's Day in the East Neuk & St Andrews

Here are my tips for how to spend a truly romantic Valentine's day with your loved one in the East Neuk of Fife and St Andrews. All you need to do is follow these four fail-safe steps:

STEP 1: GET SOME FRESH SEA AIR - Take a romantic stroll, walking hand in hand along the beautiful Kingsbarns beach. Perhaps you'll see the twinkle of the Bell Rock lighthouse way out to sea or even a dolphin or two. Or if you are a sporty couple you could up the pace and go for an invigorating jog, running side by side along St Andrews' iconic West Sands beach, humming the theme to "Chariots of Fire" as you go. Ahh that fresh Scottish air!

STEP 2: SWEETS FOR MY SWEET - Have coffee, homemade tablet and cake with two spoons alfresco at the Crail Harbour Gallery. As you hold hands, pause from gazing dreamily into each others' eyes for just long enough to look over to the Isle of May. It's a view which has inspired countless artists. Or if rain is threatening to extinguish those fires of passion (well we are in Scotland after all), take shelter in The Cocoa Tree, a French-style chocolate shop and cafe in the nearby village of Pittenweem. With chocolate being an aphrodisiac you can't really go wrong in here. Magnifique!

STEP 3: REELLLLLLAAAX - Warm up and ease those tense muscles from your earlier exertions by basking together in the outdoor, rooftop pool of The Old Course hotel spa in St Andrews. Maybe throw a little back massage in for good measure. Then ease yourselves out of this bliss and get changed into something alluring, ready for pre-dinner cocktails overlooking golf courses and town at the hotel's elegant, classy Road Hole bar. Bag yourselves the seats by the open fire. Mine's a Flirtini!

STEP 4: DINNER DATE - Hail a trusty taxi and whisk your loved one off for an intimate, candlelit dinner for two at The Peat Inn. Hopefully you've saved your pennies (and booked ahead) for an indulgent, magnificent dinner at this five star, fine dining restaurant in the country. It's dimly lit, suitably expensive and a sensuous feast for the taste buds. If you haven't done it yet, now's an ideal time to pop that question! (Or if there's no room at the Inn / on your credit card check out Hazel of www.thegrumblingtummy.org 's blog on the Visit St Andrews site for more valentine's dining options.)

However you choose to spend it, have a very happy Valentine's.

xxx

p.s. Do you have a favourite romantic place in the East Neuk and St Andrews that I haven't mentioned? If so, why not share it by leaving a comment.

Top left is the Isle of May; Bottom right is The Swilken Bridge, famous St Andrews landmark

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2013.

Snowdrops by Starlight - don't miss it!

Nowhere in Scotland does snowdrops quite like the Cambo estate and their showcase event, "Snowdrops by Starlight" (5-9.15pm, Wednesday 13- Sunday 17 February 2013) is a stunner.

You'll have seen from my Cambo Magic blog post that I have a big soft spot for the Cambo Estate, Kingsbarns in the East Neuk of Fife. So an event which takes Cambo, the beautiful swathes of white snowdrops they so carefully cultivate each year then adds state-of-the-art lighting effects, plus music, arts and crafts was pretty much guaranteed to float my boat. Something about arriving in the darkness and walking through woods lit up pink, blue, green, red and white, wearing glow bands is unique, magical and slightly surreal; like walking through some sort of enchanted forest. I think you'd like it too.

 

Enchanted forest, including Cambo Burn

Last year when we arrived (which was normally by shuttle bus, though in our case we just walked there) we were given a glow band in exchange for your tickets and simply make your own way round the route. This started in the stables where there was an art exhibition. The stables themselves are a lovely old building, still in their original stable form. They are going to be redeveloped as part of the Cambo Institute Restoration project. This is great for the community and area but I can't help thinking it's a bit of a shame that the building will be changed. The last room in the stables, which has a striking mural of horses on the wall, was a workshop for making snowdrop lanterns.

Snowdrop lantern, workshop at the Stables



Mural, workshop at the Stables

From the stables we then joined the path which takes you to the woods, down to the Cambo burn and then back round to the house itself. On the way were literally thousands of snowdrops of many varieties, lit by thousands of fairy lights. This display on the ground was skilfully complemented by beautiful colour effects in the trees and various environmental scultures, including living willow sculptures by Jon Warnes and some interactive installations which were very popular with kids.



Living sculptures



Some of the lights changed colour, making for a wonderful effect (if a few photography challenges). Even the Cambo burn was lit up. Music added to the atmosphere.







 



The house itself was strikingly illuminated with a giant snowdrop pattern and in the flower beds just beside the house were some of the more rare (and expensive) snowdrop varieties, lit by dramatic spotlights.

At the end of the trail there was a chance to buy some snowdrops to take home at the plant shop in the courtyard, a gift shop and cafe for winter warmer refreshments. We took some home and then planted them in the garden so they will grow again in future years (fingers crossed anyway!).

Snowdrops lit by spotlight, outside Cambo House





Cambo House



2013 is the event's fourth year. This year there will be a new interactive trail. Transport will also be easier as  you can park at the Estate itself (which avoids the need to do a shuttle by bus from Kingsbarns Golf Club). Our advice is quite simple: make sure you don't miss it!

A nice way to continue the evening and warm the cockles is to book a table for dinner in the nearby pub The Barns at Kingsbarns. They have a lovely crackling fire, comfy chairs and decent pub food such as macaroni cheese, steak, fish 'n' chips etc.



Essentials: Tickets for Snowdrops by Starlight cost £10 plus booking fee for adults, £8 concessions, £5 for children (under 16s) - under 5s go free. They must be bought in advance from The Cambo Estate - Tel 01333 459313 or 01333 450054 or email cambo@camboestate.com. For more details see the Snowdrops by Starlight website. (Tickets already purchased from The Byre are still valid). Make sure you wrap up warm. If you plan to take photos a tripod and patient companions are essential!

Can't make the Starlight event? Cambo is also open during the day for "Snowdrop by Daylight" viewing (10am-4.30pm, 2 February to 17 March, £5 adults, children free), buying snowdrops and meeting the pigs and piglets (who are an essential part of the workforce at Cambo: they eat the moss which would otherwise smother the snowdrops).
 

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2012-2013.

 




Birthday dinner at The Road Hole restaurant, The Old Course Hotel

This was the first time I'd arrived at a restaurant in a limo. In fact the first time I'd arrived anywhere by limo. No, I haven't won the lottery - it was a surprise birthday treat for my sister-in-law, L, and I who share the same birthday! Reluctant to leave our new favourite mode of transport, we put down our champagne glasses, attempted to make an elegant exit from the limo (difficult to do while wearing a short dress and holding a helium balloon) and stepped out and into the delights of The Old Course hotel (Dundee Limos, tel: 01382 580720, email: book@dundeelimos.co.uk).

We started with some pre-dinner cocktails in The Road Hole bar, after parking ourselves at the seats beside the fire - which the staff promptly lit for us. It was 6pm on Boxing Day and we had the place largely to ourselves at first, with a few more people arriving as the evening went on. It was classic and luxurious without being stuffy. The bar staff were knowledgeable and friendly and the place had that international feel of a five star hotel with plenty of Scottish touches like their whisky collection and antler lights. I tried out a Tom Collins for the first time - quite a refreshing gin-based cocktail but a little sour for me so I still prefer a classic gin and tonic. Bowls of tasty nuts and snacks were eagerly devoured, while we laughed at the video which S had taken of the limo ride and I had accidentally posted to Facebook.

We perused the dinner menu and then went through to our table in the Road Hole restaurant, which was just next door. During daylight it would probably have been the best table they have - right beside a large bay window overlooking the most famous golf course in the home of golf, the West Sands beach and sea beyond and the romantic rooftops and spires of the town of St Andrews to the right. As it was dark, everything was pitch black and only some twinkling lights in the distance hinted at the fantastic view we were missing.

Having eaten a hefty lunch of Christmas dinner leftovers earlier we opted to stick to just two courses for our dinner. A celebratory bottle of Marques de Riscal Gran Riserva Rioja 2001 was ordered and tasted fantastic.

S and I had Fillet of Gigha hallibut, curried leeks, kidney potatoes with warm tomato vinaigrette for our main. It was light and tasty with soft and fluffy, meaty fish complimented by gentle tomato and curry tastes.

Meanwhile R and L opted for the Tournedos of Black Isle beef sirloin, green beans, wild mushrooms, glazed onions and potato rosti, which they quickly scoffed with approving noises. Lovely, thinly-sliced pieces of steak, cooked perfectly pink. R said that if there was a single gripe it was that the rosti may have been a little too fatty.

Both main courses were an ideal size for a post-Christmas day meal - not too big but not too small either. So far we were very happy.

For dessert S and I again made the same choice - the Honeycomb parfait, poached pear, macadamia biscuit and pear sorbet. It was moist, fruity and refreshing with the biscuit providing a crisp sweetness.

However R and L picked the best plate of food of the day with their choice of the Chocolate mousse and pistachio creme brûlée with marzipan ice cream. The presentation was beautiful and judging by the blissed-out look on L's face the taste was pure dessert heaven! Having sneaked a rich, smooth, chocolatey taste of R's chocolate mousse cone I would completely agree!

We all agreed that the food was of a better standard than when we had eaten there last, some 14 months ago - on that occasion we had found the food a little disappointing, not quite living up to its luxurious surroundings. I had heard that there was a new chef and new menu and these changes seem to have made a positive difference.

We finished the evening off with some coffee, petit fours (pictured) and liquers including S's choice of possibly the largest glass of port ever seen!

It was still quite early but all the birthday champagne drinking earlier had taken its toll so we travelled back to our cottage. This time it was by less glamorous means, by taxi. Sadly I don't think I'll be going to The Road Hole by limo again but I will definitely be back for another special occasion I'm sure!
(Tel: 01334 474171)




Petit fours















Halibut



Sirloin





Honeycomb parfait



Chocolate mousse...

Cambo Magic

Two years ago I didn't know it existed but now I'm a big fan of the Cambo Estate, near Kingsbarns in the East Neuk of Fife. Ever since I first set foot there in 2010 it has utterly charmed me. What is it about this privately-owned estate which is open to the public that makes it so magical?

Maybe it's the herd of deer you sometimes see by the entry road. Or the beautiful and endlessly photogenic Victorian walled garden which is ingeniously designed using modern techniques to be a garden for all seasons. Maybe it's the arty, musical, colourfully lit, snowdrop-filled woodland at their annual Snowdrops by Starlight event (part of an ever-growing and varied annual events calendar)? Or the charming walk down to the Fife Coastal Path and Kingsbarns golf course. Or is it the cute piglets, cats etc which are "interviewed" for the Cambo Courier? Maybe it is how the Estate is helping and working with local artists? Or the remarkable number of quirky snowdrop and pig-themed gifts in the gift shop (who knew that so many of these even existed?!)? I think the magic comes from all of these things.

The Cambo website describes it as "an oasis of calm an tranquility" and "respite from a busy world". They are not wrong.

If you haven't been yet and don't know what I'm talking about, here are some of my photos which attempt to capture that infectious Cambo charm.

Open daily 10-5. Adults £5, children free. Annual season ticket £15 single, £25 double. Tel: 01333 450313. www.camboestate.com/gardens

Copyright Sara Scott 2012

Celeb & golf extravaganza at the Dunhill Links

We hadn't really planned it like this but a week's holiday at Rose Cottage ended up coinciding with the annual Alfred Dunhill Links Championship and this actually became a real highlight of the week. If you're a golf fan you will absolutely love this opportunity to see some of big pro names' swings and putts in the flesh. If like me you think a bogey is something you would find up your nose it's still a great event for the celeb-spotting! 

This is a 4 day event where professional golfers pair up with amateurs - many of them celebrities from the worlds of sport, music and film. Over three days the competitors play a round on each of three famous Scottish links golf courses - The Old Course, Carnoustie and Kingsbarns. The best professionals and teams then play a final round on day 4 at the Old Course. The first three days are FREE for spectators to attend (including free parking at Kingsbarns). Tickets for the final day, the Sunday, are £15 for adults (£10 for OAPs and free for students and under 16s - its also possible to get free tickets e.g. by wearing visible tartan or buying something at the Farmers Market on the Saturday). There are gourmet food stalls, toilets etc and, in St Andrews anyway, lots of scope for some post golf drinks should you feel the urge e.g. at the Dunvegan Hotel (at the end of Golf Place) - we saw some of the Day 1 star players here.

We spent our first day at St Andrews where we based ourselves mainly at the 14th and 15th holes. The air was cold but with some welcome sunny spells. First up we saw Ian Botham (pictured) in a fetching neon green jumper and a pair of patterned trousers which had to be seen to be believed, topping the whole ensemble off with a cigar. He stopped to speak to his son Liam who was playing on the 4th. Botham senior was playing in the same group as Shane Warne (and I believe his wife Liz Hurley came to watch him play the next day at Carnoustie). Then came a group with Scottish sporting legends Gavin Hastings and Alan Hansen (commentating on his fellow players' performances). Staying at the same spot we also saw US Vice President Dan Quayle (my partner joked that his swing was "almost presidential"), Bon Jovi drummer Tico Torres and two more ex-footballers Johan Cruyff and Ruud Gullit. We finished the day by following ex-footballer Jamie Redknapp's group's game to the 18th. After a fantastic drive to about 40 yards from the pin at the 18th he rather strangely (I'm told) decided to use his putter from the fairway rather than chip onto the green. After putting to about 8 feet from the hole and receiving a round of applause, he turned to the crowd smiling and admitted he was "a scaredy cat really - I went through the back of the green the last two years I played".     

By day two, this time at Kingsbarns, my partner quipped that it was like being on some sort of celebrity safari, with household names popping up behind every bush. With the sun splitting the sky we had arrived to see Paul Lawrie, fresh from the European team's Ryder Cup success, teeing off on the 1st. The Scot was partnered with his young son Craig. Then we saw actor Bill Murray (making chicken noises) and singer Huey Lewis. Later at the 5th Huey accidentally hit his ball while doing a practice swing at the tee. It went into the rough just to the side of the tee and Bill Murray's pro partner David Howell was winding Huey up that he had to hit it from there. Huey sportingly went to do just that, with Murray saying to the crowd: "Ladies and gentleman - Huey Lewis - what a sportsman". Howell then 'fessed up that he didn't have to.

We also saw Colin Montgomerie and Sir Steve Redgrave (pictured) on the 5th - a team who went on to end the day on an impressive 12 under par - and also the actor Greg Kinnear (pictured).

A highlight for me and a lot of excited kids was seeing the Olympian and Paralympian group - US swimming legend, the giant Michael Phelps and the Bladerunner himself, South African Oscar Pistorius. We were within inches of Pistorius when he had to move the barrier to take a shot in the rough on the 5th. Earlier in the day Phelps' pro partner Paul Casey had apparently had his ball stolen on the green by an over-enthusiastic dog!

We also saw a jovial Ernie Els, a giant of a man, who had won the Open earlier this year. His fellow South African partner Johann Rupert said to him at the start of the 3rd "you birdie this one and I'll get the next!".

My partner enjoyed getting up really close (right behind the tee) to see the incredible speed and accuracy of the pros driving. Often it was impossible to see the ball at all - just a whooshing sound high up in the air. I enjoyed the celeb-spotting and the light-hearted atmosphere - the players seemed to be really enjoying themselves and having a bit of banter with each other and the crowd. Though I imagine things might get more competitive on the final day!

We finished off by quaffing some Rob Roy burgers and getting the programme signed by two pros: Dustin Johnson (from the American Ryder Cup team) and Northern Irish golfer (and possible future Ryder Cup captain - though he wasn't giving anything away to the press on that) Darren Clarke.

The 2012 event was won by a South African pro, Branden Grace, who had led right from Day One - click here for the full results. Looking forward to next year's event already!