An East Neuk Easter

My family has always loved Easter - all cute bunnies and chicks, the start of better weather and lighter days, family meals and days out and more chocolate than is really good for you.  When we were little my sisters and I even had our own special Easter roles - I was an Easter Chick, J was an Easter Bunny and C was an Easter Lamb. Easter is a festival of rebirth, new life, whether you're religious or not. It's also a great time to visit the East Neuk. Borrowing J's role for a moment and using my official Easter Bunny name of "Snuggly Socks" (what's yours? http://easterbunnyname.com/) I thought I'd bring you a sweet selection of what to do this Easter in the East Neuk to keep everyone in your family entertained:

Anstruther duck race

1. Race a duck - For great fun with the competitive thrill of a chance of winning a prize check out the annual Anstruther Duck Race on Easter Saturday. The Dreel Burn in Anstruther is the venue and no they are not real ducks but cute rubber ones! Entry is £1 - sponsor your duck in a local shop or on the day, if there are any left. It's organised by the Anstruther Improvements Association (AIA) and the money goes towards improving the village. 

2. Picnic with the King - As well as the Duck Race itself there is a whole music festival in Anstruther over the Easter weekend called "Yellae Deuks". Concerts are on at the Dreel Halls in Anstruther on the Friday and Saturday nights and during the day on Sunday when there will be an indoor picnic. Don't miss King Creosote himself playing at the Sunday event. Family friendly until 9pm. 

Kellie Castle and Gardens

3. Hunt eggs at a castle - National Trust properties around the country are playing host to Cadbury's Egg Trails this Easter. Where better for the little ones to run about in search of eggs than Kellie Castle, near Anstruther, with its gorgeous gardens and estate. Easter egg trails open 12-4pm on Easter Friday, Saturday and Sunday. 

Bunny, Isle of May

4. Spot the bunnies - April marks the beginning of the season for boat trips on the May Princess or RIB Osprey to the Isle of May. You're sure to see lots of cute bunnies on the island (though they're a little shy) and lots of seabirds and seals too - I hear that the puffins are there already so it's a great time to visit! Book ahead if you want a seat on the daily boat trips as it's bound to be popular.

5. See some art & crafts - Pittenweem Artists & Galleries weekend 2015 is taking place on 3-6 April in various venues around the village. It's organised by the same people as the village's famous annual arts festival, though the weekend is on a more compact scale with six exhibiting artists. 

There's also a local art and crafts event called "Spring in the Loft" upstairs at the Ardross Farm Shop, near Elie on Easter Saturday (9am-5.30pm) and Sunday (9am-4pm).

6. Find the Gruffalo - I reckon a lot of little ones are going to be very excited about the new Gruffalo Trail which opens on Easter Sunday at St Andrews' Botanic Gardens. 11am-4pm. £5 adults, free for kids. 

7. Chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate - Get your Easter chocolate fix at The Cocoa Tree cafe and Pittenweem Chocolate Company shop, Pittenweem, Iain Burnett The Highland Chocolatier, South Street, St Andrews or Fisher and Donaldson, Church Street, St Andrews. Yum!

Leave a comment if you know about something fun that I've missed.

Happy Easter all!

Copyright Snuggly Socks (normally known as Sara Scott) 2015

Autumnal delights

As the leaves change colour and the nights grow darker there are still lots of great things to do in the East Neuk, St Andrews and the surrounding area. Here are four of the best things I've been up to this autumn:

1. Rory mania

Following world no. 1 golfer, Rory McIlroy around the Old Course, as he teamed up with his dad to compete at the Alfred Dunhill Links Championship 2014 (http://www.alfreddunhilllinks.com/m/home/), was a must this October. Rory and some of his fellow professional golfers, such as Victor Dubuisson, were fresh from the European team's Ryder Cup win at Gleneagles. 

For more on what the Dunhill Links is all about and why it's such a great event see my Dunhill blog: http://rosecottageeastneuk.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/celeb-golf-extravaganza-at-dunhill-links.html?m=1

2. Day trip to fabulous Falkland

Just half an hour or so from St Andrews is the picture perfect village of Falkland. Most visitors go for the National Trust of Scotland's Falkland Palace (http://www.nts.org.uk/property/falkland-palace-and-garden/)

The palace is well worth a visit for a glimpse into Scotland in days of old, when the Stuart monarchs travelled around with all of their furniture and tapestries so that their quarters in the next castle or palace could be made to look exactly like the last one! It was also a favourite place of Mary Queen of Scots.

The palace gardens are also lovely, though inevitably not as splendid in Autumn as they must be in Spring and Summer. 

A unique feature at the bottom of the garden is the stone royal tennis court - which is not the same as tennis as we know it. 

Falkland is not just about the palace though - its a very scenic and quaint place for a wander around, popping into enticing little gift shops, galleries and cafés as you go. Even the more industrial old mill is attractively vintage, though apparently soon to be knocked down. With more time you could also explore the very pretty surrounding countryside, which looked great for walking, cycling etc.

3. Proof that Anstruther dining is finer than just fish 'n' chips: The Cellar

We'd been huge fans of The Cellar restaurant in Anstruther (http://www.thecellaranstruther.co.uk/) and were disappointed when it closed in tragic circumstances. It's now open again and the new management, including Anstruther-born head chef Billy Boyter, have managed to put their own spin on it whilst keeping the charm. It's a highly atmospheric historic building, which you reach through a pretty courtyard area. You can then quaff an aperitif in one of the elegant seating areas before being shown to your table in the cosy, romantic restaurant. 

Once seated you can expect to be treated to a series of courses lovingly created with care, precision and creativity from the best seasonal local produce. 

For its combination of accomplished fine dining, friendly staff and a very atmospheric and romantic setting I would highly recommend The Cellar for a special occasion meal out or if you are simply treating yourselves (we went to celebrate Mr ENB's birthday). Book ahead though, particularly at weekends as the restaurant is quite small. 

4.Cambolicious

Twice a year Cambolicious (http://www.cambolicious.com/), the East Neuk's popular craft beer festival, comes to the Cambo Estate near Kingsbarns (in May and November) and I am a festival regular. It's small in scale but big in charm and appeals to children and adults alike. This time around there was lots of fun to be had with the outdoor games, including table tennis in a posh tent with a chandelier and various retro games which involved throwing skills (I was hopelessly bad at all of these!). Foodie delights included juicy steak burgers with a mountain of trimmings, freshly pressed apple juice and deliciously naughty sweet and savoury crepes. 

But really people love Cambolicious for all the craft beers, ciders and gins, with their weird and wonderful names, from around Scotland. 22 types were on tap this time around. The Fresh Root Ginger cider from Borders-based Thistly Cross was a sell-out again and for good reason. It's still my favourite cider ever. Of the beers Biology Girl loved the Spiced Pumpkin Rye from the St Andrews Brewing Company and Legally Brunette enjoyed the Staple Pale from the Top Out Brewery.

Never shy of a bit of dressing up, I got into the festival spirit and enjoyed making my own natural headgear at the stand for this. Here's my less than perfect attempt (well it was made in the dark!):

Sadly I missed out on the face painting, which was not just for kids - various adults were sporting Halloween-type designs, whimsical leaves or wood nymph-esque designs. Throughout there was the highly enjoyable and sometimes impromptu music from some of Fife's most talented musicians that I've come to expect from Cambolicious. Unfortunately no King Creosote or Lidh sets this time round but Emporium ended the event on a high. As ever at Cambolicious I didn't want to leave.

World famous sports stars, fantastic sight-seeing, fine dining and craft beer festivals - what's not to love about the East Neuk and St Andrews in Autumn?

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2014

Happy Days in the East Neuk and St Andrews

Here's some news about an artist that I admire for her colourful and fun paintings which do indeed invoke heart-warming memories of happy days spent in the East Neuk of Fife and St Andrews and bring a smile to your face:

Scottish artist, Jennifer Thomson is launching a new book of her paintings called "Happy Days in the East Neuk and St Andrews" at her forthcoming exhibition  in the East Neuk village of Elie, Fife. Jennifer is well known for the unmistakable style of her paintings, packed full of colourful people having fun and enjoying life, often in popular Scottish locations. The book brings together the best of her paintings from the last fifteen years of painting in the East Neuk of Fife. Included are paintings of Lower Largo, Earlsferry, Elie, St Monans, Kilconqhuar, Pittenweem, Anstruther, Crail and the neighbouring St Andrews.

Jennifer attended Edinburgh College of Art from 1987-1992 where she gained her honours then post-graduate degree along with several awards and prizes. She taught art for a few years at Madras College in St Andrews before giving up teaching to paint full time in 1998. Since then her paintings can be found in many art collections such as the Royal Bank of Scotland, Edinburgh's City Arts Centre, The BBC and Paintings in Hospitals. Her work is spreading all over the world and she has been commissioned by organisations and individuals in the USA, Canada, Australia and Japan.

Alongside each painting in the book are Jennifer's notes about each scene. You discover what inspired the artist to paint each composition and begin to see what Jennifer was thinking when she painted each scene and share in her often humorous insights. In some of the paintings you might spot the artist's faithful painting companion Brodie, a mischievous wire haired fox terrier. For admirers of Jennifer's work and East Neuk fans alike, this book will warm your hearts and make you smile. 

Jennifer will be signing copies of "Happy Days in the East Neuk and St Andrews" at her exhibition of paintings of the East Neuk and travels round Europe at The Old Post Office Gallery, Links Place, Elie, Fife, KY8 1AX from 27 July to 10 August 2014 10am-5pm. The book can also be ordered from her website www.jenniferthomson.com. 

The Jewel of the Forth - a nature-lover's day trip to the Isle of May

You can't really miss the Isle of May if you visit the East Neuk of Fife. It dominates the seascapes, enticing the eye and inspiring countless artists. It lights up the sea after dark with its twinkling lighthouse. It is always there, seeming to ask: "Aren't you curious about me?", "Don't you want to find out more about me?". There's something so timless and romantic about an island and visiting them is always a little adventure. All islands have a magical and romantic allure in my book but none more so than an uninhabited one - the Isle of May has no permanent inhabitants. Or at least no human ones. It's a national nature reserve with some serious credentials - it's home to up to a quarter of a million birds and the largest grey seal colony on the east coast of Britain (2,000 seal pups each Autumn). Volunteers work there for part of the year, studying and counting the wildlife. With daily sailings from Anstruther harbour from March to September it's also an accessible adventure for a day out.

My first trip to the May was summer 2011. I loved it but wanted to return in Spring to try and see the puffins, who were absent on that trip. I'd seen puffins on tiny Staffa on the West Coast of Scotland and wanted to see more of these adorably colourful and quirky seabirds. But as we firmed up on a sailing date I started to worry that the puffins would be keeping a low profile. No doubt sick of questions, including from me on Twitter, about whether there were puffins to be seen yet this season, the Isle of May blog published a blogpost called "Yes we do have puffins"! This was heartening, however I was trying not to get my hopes up too much just in case it wasn't to be. 

On the day of sailing the weather couldn't have been better. Defying a forecast of cloudy conditions the sun was unmistakably out and the strong wind that has been a feature of recent months was having a day off. So far so good. The boat, called the May Princess, made its merry way out of Anstruther harbour, full of optimistic nature-spotters, including a school trip plus teachers. The trip takes around 50 minutes to an hour each way, costing £24 adult / £20 student / £12 child (tickets from the ticket office on Anstruther pier). For a faster ride take the RIB Osprey - 25 minutes each way, £25/£20/£12.

Sailing to the Isle of May, including RIB Osprey aka the fast boat (top left) and the larger May Princess

As we neared the island we started to see ever increasing numbers of puffins in the water near the boat and flying in their awkward way over us. I got pretty snap-happy, thinking this could be the best we get. However it quickly became clear that the best was still to come as we spotted lots of puffins on the island. Our skipper declared it to be the best day for weather AND puffins so far this year! Delighted, we skipped off the boat in search of nature's finest...and almost stepped on a poor lady eider duck, sitting on her nest to protect her eggs, right beside the path, very camouflaged. The reasons behind the warden's message to "stick to the paths" became very clear. Mrs Duck and her nest were OK though and the more noticeable Mr Duck was nearby. 



Male and Female Eider Ducks, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



 We reached the cliffs and our first group of puffins. Que about 50 million photos by me. After that we felt like we'd stepped into a nature programme due to the sheer volume of wildlife to be seen in quite a small area near the South Horn (where the island's biggest cliffs can be found). It was actually slightly surreal but really stunning. There were puffins left, right and centre plus all the other seabirds the May supports - diving gannets, distinctive cormorants, noisy gulls and kittiwakes, graceful Arctic terns, fulmars, razorbills and guillemots all nesting in different parts of the cliff face. Shy rabbits darted about in and out of burrows and the quietly determined eider ducks were all over the place. Looking down from the top of the cliff (where incidentally there are fabulous views of Bass Rock and Berwick Law on the other side of the water), grey seals and their pups swam playfully below in the glistening, translucent water. Sitting on a rock eating our packed lunches we soaked up some rays and had the chance just to listen to all the noises of nature. When we finally came out of this trance-like state we spoke to the warden, who had some environmental messages to relay, worrying that in 5-10 years time we'll have to travel to Norway to see puffins in the wild as their food sources dry up in this country due to global warming.

Puffins, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



With just an hour left until our departure (you get almost 3 hours on the island) it was time for a quick dash round the rest of the island. Luckily, we'd had more time to explore this more fully on our last visit, taking in the various lighthouses and interesting human history of the island (including smugglers and monks). Scotland's oldest lighthouse is here (The Beacon, 1636). The views from the Main Light (built by Stephenson in 1816) towards Fife were sublime that day, visibility being so good that you could make out the row of colourful houses all the way along at Fife Ness, beside the Crail Golfing Society clubhouse (not that R is a golfer or anything!). I have a romantic notion about staying overnight in Low Light some day, listening to the waves... 



Buildings of the Isle of May. From top left: Main Light, Low Light, South Horn, Beacon, Cute sign at the visitor toilets.



...But no time for that sort of day-dreaming - just time for a few more quick puffin pics then back to the boat to sail around the North side of the island, past curious, grey seals and dramatic rock formations before heading off towards the mainland again. We shared a cold beer from the May Princess shop while soaking up some more rays on deck as Anstruther edged nearer and nearer.

Grey seals basking and swimming, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



It was a truly amazing experience, a taste of natural paradise right here in Scotland that will stay with us for a long time. My advice? Switch off the TV and see nature in the flesh with a trip out to the Isle of May.

Text and pictures copyright Sara Scott 2012 and 2013

Auld Alliance, alive and cooking in the East Neuk!

My guest blog has now been published on the Crail Food Festival website! It's about La Petite Epicerie, a little French deli in Anstruther with an amazing mixture of local and continental products extraordinaire. You'll find it right here: Crail Food Festival Blog.

Don't forget that the festival is taking place 15-16 June 2013 - should be lots of fun for anyone who likes good food and drink!

Easter in the East Neuk



Easter chick



Are you lucky enough to be in or around the East Neuk of Fife this Easter holiday? If so, here's a selection of six local events to keep you and your family busy:

1. AN ENTIRE FESTIVAL DEVOTED TO CHOCOLATE - The Cocoa Tree cafe and shop in Pittenweem is running a Grand Festival of Chocolate, which is inspired by the best selling book Chocolat. This is my kind of festival! It includes a Grand Chocolate Treasure Hunt (throughout the festival - to enter the prize draw the deadline is 6pm on Easter Sunday), a Full Moon "Chocolat" Film Party (Wednesday 27 March 7pm), The Grand Chocolate Fayre and Weem Witch Tours (Thursday 28 March), The Grand Good Friday Dinner (Friday 29 March), Grand Finale of the Treasure Hunt and Raffle (Sunday 31 March 6pm) and finally Chocolate Workshops (Monday 1 April 10-12 children and 1-4 adults). (To reserve a space for any of these events contact sophie@thecocoatreeshop.com.)

2. FIND THE EASTER EGGS - Classic Easter weekend fun for the kids - join the Easter Egg Trail at National Trust Scotland's Kellie Castle (Saturday 30 March and Sunday 31 March 12-4, £2 per child).

3. PACK THE KIDS OFF FOR SOME FUN IN THE WOODS - Cambo Estate, Kingsbarns is running a one week Easter Woodland Club for children aged 6-13 (1-5 April or 8-12 April, 10am-4pm each day, £125 per week). The Club is all about having fun in the woods. It includes activities like building a den, cooking on the fire, making wooden things, playing games and watching wildlife (to book contact Chris Childe 01337 830621, chris.childe_education@yahoo.co.uk).

4. RACE A DUCK - On Easter Saturday (30 March, 10.30am) you can watch or even take part in the A.I.A. (Anstruther Improvements Association) annual duck race at the Dreel Burn in Anstruther. Everyone floats rubber ducks down the stream and the owner of the lucky winning duck wins a prize. Ducks cost £1 and can be bought in advance or on the day. Should be lots of fun!

5. SEE SOME ART - Pittenweem's famous arts festival doesn't kick off until August but Easter marks the annual Pittenweem Artists and Galleries weekend, when many of this very arty village's residents open their studies to show new work. Venues are open Friday 29 - Sunday 31 March (10am-5pm or 11am-4pm for the new ART@47 gallery space). Look out for the poster on the door.


Arty Pittenweem

6. RENACT THE COLD WAR (?) - For a slightly unusual Easter experience, Scotland's Secret Bunker will be having a re-enactment over Easter (Friday 29 - Sunday 31 March) with real Army soldiers at the gate to greet you, vehicle displays around the grounds and patrolling underground in the bunker in their full attire, complete with weapons for authenticity. The Bunker was the secret underground hideaway where Scotland's elite would have gone in the event of a nuclear attack in the Cold War era. It was kept secret, hiding below a farmhouse for 40 years. Today it's a unique tourist attraction.



Whatever you're doing this Easter I hope you have a great time! If you know of any other great East Neuk Easter events please share them by leaving a comment. Right, I'm off to get stuck into some Easter eggs now...



First signs of Spring at Rose Cottage!



Text and Photos Copyright Sara Scott 2013