Love is in the (Sea) Air

St Andrews is a pretty romantic place so where better to spend Valentine's Day with your loved one! Follow four easy steps and you can't go wrong. Find out more in this blog I penned for the Visit St Andrews website: http://www.visitstandrews.com/valentines-day-st-andrews/

The Jewel of the Forth - a nature-lover's day trip to the Isle of May

You can't really miss the Isle of May if you visit the East Neuk of Fife. It dominates the seascapes, enticing the eye and inspiring countless artists. It lights up the sea after dark with its twinkling lighthouse. It is always there, seeming to ask: "Aren't you curious about me?", "Don't you want to find out more about me?". There's something so timless and romantic about an island and visiting them is always a little adventure. All islands have a magical and romantic allure in my book but none more so than an uninhabited one - the Isle of May has no permanent inhabitants. Or at least no human ones. It's a national nature reserve with some serious credentials - it's home to up to a quarter of a million birds and the largest grey seal colony on the east coast of Britain (2,000 seal pups each Autumn). Volunteers work there for part of the year, studying and counting the wildlife. With daily sailings from Anstruther harbour from March to September it's also an accessible adventure for a day out.

My first trip to the May was summer 2011. I loved it but wanted to return in Spring to try and see the puffins, who were absent on that trip. I'd seen puffins on tiny Staffa on the West Coast of Scotland and wanted to see more of these adorably colourful and quirky seabirds. But as we firmed up on a sailing date I started to worry that the puffins would be keeping a low profile. No doubt sick of questions, including from me on Twitter, about whether there were puffins to be seen yet this season, the Isle of May blog published a blogpost called "Yes we do have puffins"! This was heartening, however I was trying not to get my hopes up too much just in case it wasn't to be. 

On the day of sailing the weather couldn't have been better. Defying a forecast of cloudy conditions the sun was unmistakably out and the strong wind that has been a feature of recent months was having a day off. So far so good. The boat, called the May Princess, made its merry way out of Anstruther harbour, full of optimistic nature-spotters, including a school trip plus teachers. The trip takes around 50 minutes to an hour each way, costing £24 adult / £20 student / £12 child (tickets from the ticket office on Anstruther pier). For a faster ride take the RIB Osprey - 25 minutes each way, £25/£20/£12.

Sailing to the Isle of May, including RIB Osprey aka the fast boat (top left) and the larger May Princess

As we neared the island we started to see ever increasing numbers of puffins in the water near the boat and flying in their awkward way over us. I got pretty snap-happy, thinking this could be the best we get. However it quickly became clear that the best was still to come as we spotted lots of puffins on the island. Our skipper declared it to be the best day for weather AND puffins so far this year! Delighted, we skipped off the boat in search of nature's finest...and almost stepped on a poor lady eider duck, sitting on her nest to protect her eggs, right beside the path, very camouflaged. The reasons behind the warden's message to "stick to the paths" became very clear. Mrs Duck and her nest were OK though and the more noticeable Mr Duck was nearby. 



Male and Female Eider Ducks, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



 We reached the cliffs and our first group of puffins. Que about 50 million photos by me. After that we felt like we'd stepped into a nature programme due to the sheer volume of wildlife to be seen in quite a small area near the South Horn (where the island's biggest cliffs can be found). It was actually slightly surreal but really stunning. There were puffins left, right and centre plus all the other seabirds the May supports - diving gannets, distinctive cormorants, noisy gulls and kittiwakes, graceful Arctic terns, fulmars, razorbills and guillemots all nesting in different parts of the cliff face. Shy rabbits darted about in and out of burrows and the quietly determined eider ducks were all over the place. Looking down from the top of the cliff (where incidentally there are fabulous views of Bass Rock and Berwick Law on the other side of the water), grey seals and their pups swam playfully below in the glistening, translucent water. Sitting on a rock eating our packed lunches we soaked up some rays and had the chance just to listen to all the noises of nature. When we finally came out of this trance-like state we spoke to the warden, who had some environmental messages to relay, worrying that in 5-10 years time we'll have to travel to Norway to see puffins in the wild as their food sources dry up in this country due to global warming.

Puffins, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



With just an hour left until our departure (you get almost 3 hours on the island) it was time for a quick dash round the rest of the island. Luckily, we'd had more time to explore this more fully on our last visit, taking in the various lighthouses and interesting human history of the island (including smugglers and monks). Scotland's oldest lighthouse is here (The Beacon, 1636). The views from the Main Light (built by Stephenson in 1816) towards Fife were sublime that day, visibility being so good that you could make out the row of colourful houses all the way along at Fife Ness, beside the Crail Golfing Society clubhouse (not that R is a golfer or anything!). I have a romantic notion about staying overnight in Low Light some day, listening to the waves... 



Buildings of the Isle of May. From top left: Main Light, Low Light, South Horn, Beacon, Cute sign at the visitor toilets.



...But no time for that sort of day-dreaming - just time for a few more quick puffin pics then back to the boat to sail around the North side of the island, past curious, grey seals and dramatic rock formations before heading off towards the mainland again. We shared a cold beer from the May Princess shop while soaking up some more rays on deck as Anstruther edged nearer and nearer.

Grey seals basking and swimming, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



It was a truly amazing experience, a taste of natural paradise right here in Scotland that will stay with us for a long time. My advice? Switch off the TV and see nature in the flesh with a trip out to the Isle of May.

Text and pictures copyright Sara Scott 2012 and 2013

Tulip-tastic - a riot of colour with thousands of bulbs

The Cambo Estate annual Tulip Festival starts today, which they describe as "a riot of colour with thousands of bulbs". It runs 3-13 May in 2013 from 10am to 5pm daily. Cambo Estate is near Kingsbarns in the East Neuk of Fife (Tel - 01333 450054).

I'll be going along this year to see the amazing variety of tulips, carefully planted by droves of volunteers to light up Cambo's elegant walled garden with their vibrant colours. Think you've seen tulips before? These are not your average tulips - there are lots of unusual varieties, with jagged edges or stripes or very full heads. The last time I saw the walled garden it was very muted and wintry so I'm expecting this to be a much more uplifting experience, bringing hope of some Summer sunshine to come (fingers crossed!).

In the meantime I thought I'd share some of my photos of last year's Cambo Tulip Festival with you:

p.s. If you like this you might also be interested in the Cambo Rose Festival on 21 June to 7 July 2013.

Copyright Sara Scott 2012 (photos) and 2013 (text).

Meercats, sharks and ice cream - a fun family day out in St Andrews, whatever the weather

You can read my first ever guest blog on the Visit St Andrews site (the official website for visitors to St Andrews, Scotland). It's about two family-friendly things to do whether it's rain or shine, snowy or fine: (1) the delights of the Aquarium (meerkats, sharks, Nemo and much more) and (2) St Andrews' famous ice cream emporium, B. Jannettas. You'll find it right here: Visit St Andrews Blog 

May 2013 update: The St Andrews Aquarium now has some news - it will be getting Humboldt Penguins on 23 May 2013. Lets hope the penguins like their new home in St Andrews and you enjoy seeing them!

Copyright Sara Scott 2013

5 great things to do in the East Neuk right now

Do you think that February/ March is not a good time to holiday in Scotland? Think again - there's lots to do at this time of year in the East Neuk of Fife. Here are 5 ideas:

1. CATCH THE SNOWDROPS IN BLOOM - you may have missed the Snowdrops by Starlight event but the famous snowdrops at the Cambo Estate are still making an appearance by daylight and they are gorgeous! The sheer volume of them creates a lovely effect, especially alongside the Cambo burn. The unusual varieties near the house are also worth a look for their delicate perfection (there are over 350 varieties of snowdrops at Cambo). You can also buy snowdrops from the plant shop in the hope of recreating Cambo at home (I'm not known for my survival rate with plants so let's see how my efforts in the Rose Cottage garden go!).

Kids love to see the Cambo piglets as well and I must admit I did too - they have bags of energy, charging about, play fighting and eating.  (Cambo Estate, Near Kingsbarns; Open daily 10-5)



Piglets at Cambo

2. BUY LOCAL - have yourself a cheese board with the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheddar and Anster Red cheeses from the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company. The shop there also has quality Scottish produce such as the posh, award-winning Summer Harvest rapeseed oil, which I suppose is Scotland's answer to olive oil (from £4). We took some of this to dinner with friends and it got plaudits for being something different, with a nice smoothness and subtlety, for dipping bread into. There's also a tearoom at the cheese farm where you can enjoy homemade cheese scones, cheese toasties, cakes etc, while enjoying the views over the fields and out to the Isle of May. It's a nice child-friendly place for lunch or a daytime snack in the country, with the chance to learn about how the cheese is made. (St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company, Falside Farm, Near Anstruther & Pittenweem; Tel: 01333-312580)

 



Ratatouille & goats cheese tart Fresh basil & pine nut pesto

3. EAT LOCAL FOOD AT THE PITTENWEEM INN - R and I recently tried this family-run restaurant out for the first time and we were impressed. Chef Brian Murphy does great things with fresh, seasonal local produce, including a weekly market menu. Prices are reasonable, service is friendly, the dining room inviting (with local art on the walls) and the atmosphere nice and informal. My mouth still waters when I look at this picture of the appetising goats' cheese starter from the a la carte menu (OK all this talk of cheese is really making me hungry now!). If you haven't been yet, you definitely owe it to your taste buds to pay a visit ASAP. (Pittenweem Inn, 42 Charles Street, Pittenweem; Tel: 01333 311326, Thu-Sun only)

4. PUT A LITTLE BIRDHOUSE IN YOUR SOUL - Susie Lacombe at the Crail Gallery has made a new batch of birdhouses shaped like historic Crail houses for 2013 (£40 each). I was lucky enough to be in the Gallery when she was painting them (with Farrow and Ball paint no less) so I even got to have a say in the design process of mine! Susie told me that birds look for a mate round about Valentine's day so now is definitely the time to do your bit for birdlife and put a birdhouse in your garden. Speaking of birds, daily boat trips from Anstruther to the Isle of May kick off for 2013 on 29 March, so it will soon be puffin-spotting season. (Crail Gallery, High Street, Crail; Tel: 01333 450316; Open 10-5 Mon-Sat & 12-5 Sun)



5. ENJOY A UNIQUE EVENT - Go to Scotland's only regular poetry festival - StAnza in St Andrews (6-10 March). It's international in outlook and was founded 15 years ago. Then there's the Fife Science Festival, also in St Andrews, at venues including the Castle and University (15-25 March). You could also plan ahead by booking tickets for the ninth East Neuk Festival (3-7 July) now before the events sell out. The Scotsman newspaper said the festival "promises more big names in intimate surroundings...so book ahead". I'm looking forward to experiencing it for the first time this year. For more details on these and other events see the Events page of this blog.

Like I said, lots to do so what are you waiting for?

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2013.





Cambo Magic

Two years ago I didn't know it existed but now I'm a big fan of the Cambo Estate, near Kingsbarns in the East Neuk of Fife. Ever since I first set foot there in 2010 it has utterly charmed me. What is it about this privately-owned estate which is open to the public that makes it so magical?

Maybe it's the herd of deer you sometimes see by the entry road. Or the beautiful and endlessly photogenic Victorian walled garden which is ingeniously designed using modern techniques to be a garden for all seasons. Maybe it's the arty, musical, colourfully lit, snowdrop-filled woodland at their annual Snowdrops by Starlight event (part of an ever-growing and varied annual events calendar)? Or the charming walk down to the Fife Coastal Path and Kingsbarns golf course. Or is it the cute piglets, cats etc which are "interviewed" for the Cambo Courier? Maybe it is how the Estate is helping and working with local artists? Or the remarkable number of quirky snowdrop and pig-themed gifts in the gift shop (who knew that so many of these even existed?!)? I think the magic comes from all of these things.

The Cambo website describes it as "an oasis of calm an tranquility" and "respite from a busy world". They are not wrong.

If you haven't been yet and don't know what I'm talking about, here are some of my photos which attempt to capture that infectious Cambo charm.

Open daily 10-5. Adults £5, children free. Annual season ticket £15 single, £25 double. Tel: 01333 450313. www.camboestate.com/gardens

Copyright Sara Scott 2012

Best coastal walk in the East Neuk

Here's my favourite walk along the Fife Coastal Path. In a remarkably short amount of time it shows you 3 picturesque East Neuk villages, constant beautiful views across the Firth of Forth, several gorgeous beaches, 2 castles, 1 windmill, 1 tower, 1 lighthouse and lots of rabbits and birds! 2013 Update: And don't just take my word for it either - the Independent has included the Lower Largo to St Monans part of the Fife Coastal Path in its 10 best coastal walks in the UK. This walk is part of that (longer) walk.

The walk starts in the village of Pittenweem and ends up in the village of Elie, passing through the tiny village of St Monans along the way. It takes about an hour and a half, depending on your pace and it ends where all the best Scottish walks do - in a pub! It is not a difficult walk and is relatively flat. I think it's best done late in the lovely evening light.

Practicalities:
You can drive to Pittenweem and then get the bus back from Elie or take the bus to Pittenweem and then bus back from Elie, depending on where you're based etc. If you're like me you will not be able to resist taking lots of photos along the way so bring your camera. Bring a raincoat too - just in case as the only thing that is predictable about the Scottish weather is that it is unpredictable!

The walk: 
When you arrive in Pittenweem make your way down to the harbour and simply follow this round to get to the Coastal Path at West Shore. Pittenweem is a lovely village and has Fife's only working fishing harbour.

St Monans Salt Pan Windmill, Fife Coastal Path

There is only a short distance between Pittenweem and St Monans as the two villages are practically joined together. Before you get to St Monans you will probably see some rabbits before passing by my favourite landmark on this walk, the St Monans Salt Pan Windmill (pictured).

  

The windmill has been restored. It was once used to pump seawater into the adjacent salt pans and fossil rich limestone beds.

The walk then passes through the tiny village of St Monans. I really like St Monans - it has a lovely off-the-beaten-track feel to it and is really chilled-out. If you feel like spending more time here you could eat in a nice fine dining restaurant at the west end of the harbour - Craig Millar @ 16 West End: http://www.16westend.com/craig-millar. The walk passes by this restaurant. At the historic St Monans Church (14th century) there is a diversion to the path if it is high tide. If it's not high tide you go to the left of the church. Look back and you will see this wonderful view of St Monans with Pittenweem and Anstruther beyond...

St Monans Church and East Neuk village view

The section of the walk between St Monans and Elie is great. You pass by the ruins of two castles - Ardross Castle (1370) and Newark Castle (15th century) - and a 16th century doocot. As well as history there is natural beauty too, in the form of sublime beaches...

What's more they are remarkably deserted - we got the whole beach to ourselves.

Approaching Lady's Tower, outside Elie on the Fife Coastal Path

You'll then start to see the next landmark from a distance. This is Ladies Tower (pictured).

I think it is quite romantic! It was built in 1760 for Lady Janet Anstruther as a summer house. She liked to swim in the sea here (maybe it was warmer then!). The views from here over the Forth Estuary are particularly stunning. Look out for Bass Rock in the distance, near North Berwick.

Elie Lighthouse, Fife Coastal Path

Just past the Tower there there is one final historic landmark, Elie Lighthouse (1908) (pictured).

 

The path crosses Shepherd's Knowe next and then Ruby Bay, which is famous for the red garnet once found here. There are lovely views across Elie and over to the adjoining village of Earlsferry. When we were there it was made even more picturesque by some kitesurfers...

Follow the curve of the bay and you will then arrive at your destination, The Ship Inn.

The Ship Inn - a beach-side pub in Elie

This is a traditional pub with good food and is very popular with the people of Elie (many of who are holiday-home owners from Edinburgh) and visitors too. It's right opposite the beach and you can sit outside in their beer garden if the weather is nice. They even hold cricket matches on the beach some days during the Summer.

You have completed the walk - now time for a refreshing drink!