The best airshow in town - Leuchars Airshow 2013

I'm writing this with the soundtrack to "Top Gun" in my head ("Highway to the danger zone..."). It seems pretty appropriate for a fast-paced trip to see the amazing display of flying that was the RAF Leuchars Airshow 2013, Saturday 7 September 2013.

It was Saturday afternoon and my co-pilot ("R-man") and I ("Chicken") were in our usual mad rush - this time to see the Red Arrows do their legendary flying display at the Royal Air Force (RAF) base at Leuchars, near St Andrews as part of the annual Air Show. We were driving from Crail with our sunglasses on, roof down and wind whipping our hair ("Revvin' up your engine, listen to her howlin' roar..."). In a somewhat maverick style we realised en route that parking at the airfield itself is only for pre-booked cars and the park and ride option wouldn't get us there in time. Local farmers are wise to this though and open their fields as car parks. So we were able to divert our course and alight in a field on the other side of the Eden Estuary from Leuchars. We joined some other cars who had paid to park and watch the displays from there (£10).

We came to a halt just as the RAF Red Arrows took to the skies in all their glory. Watching them in awe (I suspect I had my mouth open), we quickly ran down to a scenic beach, located immediately opposite the RAF Leuchars Airfield. 

How I wished I could be a Red Arrows pilot! Swooping, spinning, diving, flying in perfect formations, leaving trails of coloured smoke in my wake. How amazing would that be?

In reality however I would almost certainly have become re-acquainted with my breakfast had I even been a passenger in one of those planes for a few seconds! What's more, the ear-shatteringly loud noise that the first flypast made, as three Arrows passed over my head, scared the absolute living daylights out of me! 

Thankfully the real pilots are made of more macho stuff and put on a crowd-pleasing, fearlessly perfect show of fancy flying, over the scenic expanse of the Eden Estuary. 

It was stupendous. 

Occasionally the sunlight hit them beautifully... 

And here is the wider scene...

Whenever the Arrows disappeared for a moment some birds would appear, seemingly trying to emulate their flying formations. "We were doing this first", the birds seemed to say. However the crowds were far more interested in their big, noisy metal cousins.

What are the Red Arrows? They are the RAF Aerobatic Team, one of the best in the world and the public (and popular) face of the RAF. They are the Air Force's showcase, renowned throughout the world and assisting with diplomacy and RAF recruitment. 

Sadly all good things must come to an end ("She's lost that loving feeling..."). What goes up must come down. After a good half hour of amazing flying (which felt like five minutes) the Red Arrows came in to land. We stayed to watch some more of the flying displays. The noise some of the planes made was incredibly loud, making the Arrows seem quiet in comparison. Another plane did the most amazing, death-defying dives and spins...

As good as they were however once you've seen the Reds the rest is never going to be quite as good. 

So we left to refuel our rumbling tums at nearby Balgove Larder, farm shop and tea room / steak barn extraordinaire (just outside St Andrews, on the road to Leuchars). I highly recommend it.

Sadly it seems this was the last year of the RAF Leuchars Air Show (though didn't they say that last year?). If so this will be a very sad loss from the St Andrews area's events calendar and I'm glad I got the chance to see some of it this year. If you haven't seen the Red Arrows yet then you definitely should. Right, I'm off to buy a leather jacket and some aviators! 

www.airshow.co.uk

www.raf.mod.uk/reds/ or Twitter: @rafredarrows

www.balgove.com

Text and images copyright Sara Scott 2013

A very arty little neuk - East Neuk Open Studios 2013

After a visit to the Crail Food Festival on Saturday 15 June (see my blog post on this), we decided to check out the other event happening that weekend: East Neuk Open Studios (ENOS).

The event was happening throughout the East Neuk that weekend and the one before. We decided to head to the East Neuk village of Cellardyke (which adjoins Anstruther) to see some of the artists there who were opening their doors to let visitors see their artistic creations in the studios they were made in. 

I can see why petite Cellardyke has so many artists. Its old, narrow streets surreptitiously wind their way into your heart with their quiet, old-fashioned wind and sea-swept charms. Every so often you get an access point to the shore with its beautiful natural rock features and spectacular views out to the shimmering Isle of May. The communal washing lines at the harbour seem to belong to another age yet are still very much in use today. The pretty, well-tended flowers at the harbour speak of a community that cares about its village. So for me a wander around some of the studios was as much about the real life of the place itself as the art. I have to say I seriously envy many of the artists their studios as well as their artistic talents!

Charming Cellardyke - clockwise from top left: "Cosy Neuk" doorway, harbour x 2, rock formations at the shore

We started off seeing Renate Heath's landscapes and learning about her techniques (she mostly paints landscapes from her car!). We admired her uninterrupted Isle of May view and quirky garden and bought some of her beautiful postcards.

Views of the Isle of May: real life (left) and art by Renate Heath (right)

Then we enjoyed Ken Wilkinson's land and seascapes, in an outbuilding accessed directly from the beach! We left with some more cards, in my case of his Cellardyke paintings which I really liked.

Cellardyke harbour with its washing lines: Real life (left) and art by Ken Wilkinson (right)

After that it was Kate Hajducka's beeswax creations and adorable garden with the blue gate onto the shore. Mum was very struck by her colourful, Impressionistic paintings of wild flowers. More cards were purchased - the subject of mine was her garden.

Kate Hajducka's adorable Cellardyke garden: Real life (left) and art by Kate (right)

Last but definitely not least that day was Kate Laundon's more modern prints, which I had been dying to see after she'd tweeted a photo of them earlier that week. I came away with this über cute, quite Japanese-style chaffinch print, which is now on my wall at home. Mum bought another of Kate's cute bird prints and some cards. I could easily have bought a lot more! 

Chaffinch print by Kate Laundon

By this point the boys were weary from their earlier golf match at Crail Golfing Society and were worrying that this was turning into a shopping trip. They were angling to get back to Rose Cottage for some chill out time. So off we headed with our arty goodies. More Cellardyke artists to visit next time though, not least talented illustrator Jill Calder. Even by the East Neuk's high arty standards Cellardyke really is a very arty little village!

Mum and I found time the next day, Sunday 16 June, to visit one of the Crail artists who was taking part in East Neuk Open Studios. We visited the garden studio of Elizabeth Shepherd, who was displaying a series of etchings of East Neuk buildings which she'd been commissioned to do. I was very tempted to buy a print she'd done of Cellardyke harbour (bit of a theme here, isn't there!) but having only recently bought one of Keith Brockie's Isle of May originals my art budget is currently severely depleted! Having said that, one of the great things about ENOS is that is a very affordable way to buy art.

Unfortunately time didn't allow us to check out the other studios that were open in the other villages. Good news then that ENOS is happening again on the weekends of 23-24 November and 30 November-1 December 2013. I'll definitely be back to see more, hopefully with a bigger budget this time!

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2013, excluding photos of art works

Crail Food Festival 2013 part 2: foraging and lunching in the Crail sunshine

Day 2 of the Crail Food Festival (Sunday 16 July) was always going to be an entirely outdoors event so I was delighted to wake up to find that that the weather had dramatically improved overnight, transforming the East Neuk into a sunny, warm, Mediterranean-esque paradise.

As it was also Father's Day for a treat my dad and R spent the morning golfing at Kingsbarns Golf Club - my dad hadn't played before and he loved it. Meanwhile the girls, i.e. mum and I, hightailed it into Crail to join the Crail Food Festival's Foraging Walk. This was a free event which was being run by Mark from Galloway Wild Foods in association with the Fife Diet team. We joined the group heading out from the smoothie bike stall at Crail Harbour and ventured out along Crail beach in the now scorching sunshine to learn all about foraging from Mark and Chef Paul Wedgwood. Foraging is getting quite trendy in the UK these days, inspired in particular by Denmark's famous Noma restaurant. Closer to home Paul uses a lot of foraged ingredients in his Edinburgh restaurant, Wedgwood.

An hour quickly flew by as we went back to our hunter-gatherer roots to learn all about which plants are edible and which aren't, including plants which can kill you (avoid the deadly Hemlock, which looks a bit like a carrot plant and actually grows in our garden at rose cottage) and why dogs and foraging don't mix. Mark was very enthusiastic and knowledgeable about foraging, entertaining us with stories and picking lots of things for us all to taste. It was different and fun. There was a slightly surreal moment about half way through when I found myself munching rather appreciatively on some Japanese knotweed, which was trying to take over the bank of wild plants (tastes like rhubarb if you were wondering!). If you want to try foraging for yourself you'll need Mark's foraging tips.

Foraging at the Crail Food Festival including Japanese knotweed (top left), Deadly hemlock (middle left) and Mark from Galloway Wild Foods

The intrepid foragers were then treated to an open-air cookery demo back at the harbour by Paul Wedgwood, using foraged ingredients. From the little morsel I managed to get a taste of (the dish was assaulted by spoons in a matter of seconds once it was ready!), my taste buds quickly decided that foraging and flavour go hand in hand. Mark was also offering a tempting taste of his homemade Elderflower champagne.

Crail Food Festival 2013 - Clockwise from top left - Chef Paul Wedgwood (answers on a postcard about why he has that expression!), Fife Diet's foraging board, Paul's foraged meal

Mum and I then had time for a bit more art - more on this soon in my East Neuk Open Studios blog post. Then it was back to Crail harbour to meet the boys plus L and S for lunch. Wow! I have never seen the harbour so busy - the festival and sunshine had really brought the crowds to little old Crail. It was bustling, the atmosphere was great and the cooking smells were making us desperately hungry. Feed me now! After a bit of queuing between us we sampled:  seriously good venison burgers from Seriously Good Venison, superb smoked mackerel and quiche from the award-winning La Petite Epicerie deli in Anstruther, the ever-amazing Arbroath smokies, juicy, sweet strawberries and cream from Crail in Bloom and indulgent crepes and hot chocolate (yes we'd already had some the day before but we couldn't resist more!) from The Pittenweem Chocolate Company. It was all delicious and brilliant to be able to eat alfresco. Nearby benches and the beach were brimming with people sitting to enjoy their lunch, the sunshine and sea views.

Crail Food Festival 2013 - harbour and stalls

   

 

Arbroath smokies - smokin'!

Despite all that food there was still more we didn't have the space to sample e.g. the smoothies from the smoothie bike I mentioned earlier, the wood-fired pizzas or the stall for Pittenweem's Little Herb Farm, whose flavoured vinegars are already regular inhabitants of the rose cottage kitchen. We would have loved some dressed crab and lobster from the little Crail harbour shack but they'd been so popular that they'd  completely sold out. Though as the shack is there all summer there's plenty of time to go back!

Meanwhile the cookery demos continued , a second foraging walk went out and there were oodles of other activities on the beach e.g. treasure hunts for kids. Inspired by our own foraging walk earlier, mum went back to the beach for a quick forage, mainly to impress the guests at her next dinner party with some unusual, wild ingredients! She bumped into the Californian residents that we met at the Festival the previous night, who were now presumably finding Crail a bit more like home given the significantly improved weather! 

Then it was time to go home and relax after all that food. All in all a brilliant summery day out and a really enjoyable festival that lived up to my expectations!

Crail Food Festival 2013 - sandcastle on the beach, view of the harbour stalls from the beach

The Crail Food Festival blog is well worth a read to find out more about the wonderful local suppliers and distributors we have in the East Neuk and wider Fife locale, who are able to meet your foodie needs throughout the year. The 2014 festival is happening on 14 and 15 June and no doubt will be bigger and better than ever. My stomach is looking forward to it already!

Text and photos Copyright Sara Scott 2013

Crail Food Festival 2013 part 1: cookery demos, gingerbread streets and dancing

I had been looking forward to the Crail Food Festival (www.crailfoodfest.co.uk) for a long time. I'd never been before and had been helping in the preparationa and promotion by being part of the blogging team. When the weekend itself, 15-16 June, came closer I realised that in fact it co-incided with the East Neuk Open Studios (www.eastneukopenstudios.org) event as well. Brilliant combination I thought - a weekend of great food, art and even music in fantastic settings!

Day 1, Saturday 15 June, was all about cookery demos, Cellardyke artists, gingerbread streets and dancing.

After the boys returned from the inevitable golf match (at Craighead Links, Crail Golfing Society), we headed to Crail Community Hall for our first taste of the Crail Food Festival. We weren't alone - the hall was packed full of enthusiastic foodies, going round all of the stalls to sample and buy tasty local produce. The good people from the excellent Grill House restaurant (www.grillhouse-restaurant.co.uk) in St Andrews were having absolutely no trouble at all getting takers for their hot food samples. I however was having trouble getting to them in time before they all disappeared! A cookery demo by Craig Millar was announced. Craig is chef and owner of Crail Millar @ 16 West End restaurant (www.16westend.com), a great place right on the shore in the lovely East Neuk village of St Monans. The hall slowly emptied as the Chef's Theatre filled. We all went in except for R, who had identified this as the ideal opportunity to get the lion's share of the food samples (a cunning and very successful plan!). However he missed out on an entertaining, amusing and informative demo from Craig, as well as a taste of the finished product.



Craig Millar provides a cookery demo, Chef's Theatre, Crail Food Festival 2013

Hebridean sea salt and Israeli couscous were two recommendations I resolved to try at home. Craig also revealed he tends to go local by using Scottish rapeseed oil rather than olive oil - I'm with him on that. Some of Craig's recipes can be found in the Relish Scotland, Second Helping book, along with recipes from other great chefs based in some of Scotland's finest restaurants. I bought a (signed) copy of the book on the day for the rose cottage cookbook collection and would thoroughly recommend it.



Relish Scotland - Second Helping - book of original recipes from Scotland's finest chefs and restaurants



Back in the main hall we had the chance to purchase a great selection of foodie treats from the Fife's finest producers on the stalls all round the hall. I ended up buying raspberry jam from two of my favourite farmshops, who had stalls there: Balgove Larder (www.balgove.com), near St Andrews and Ardross Farm Shop (www.ardrossfarm.co.uk), near Elie. You can never have enough raspberry jam in my book!

 

Balgove Larder, farm shop near St Andrews - one of the stall holders at the Crail Food Festival 2013

However the icing on the cake on that chilly afternoon was the warmly comforting hot chocolate from our local chocolatiers, The Pittenweem Chocolate Co (www.pittenweemchocolate.co.uk). To die for!

Time was ticking so we departed for Cellardyke to see some of the East Neuk Open Studios (ENOS) - more to come on this in my ENOS blog soon. 



That evening we were back in Crail for more Food Festival fun - this time dinner and dancing. In just a few hours the Community Hall (an old church) had been transformed into a dinner and music venue. The hall was noisy, buzzing with chatter at this sold-out event. We shared a table with a Scottish family. The parents lived in California and were finding Crail rather cold in comparison! (More on this in Part 2!) 



A three course meal followed. Starter and main course from Hatters & Co (www.hatterscatering.com), caterers at the Edwardian tearoom in Hill of Tarvit Mansion House, were quickly scoffed. However  the highlight for me was definitely the dessert from Sucre Coeur (www.sucrecoeur.co.uk), creators of an entire gingerbread street which was displayed in the window of Crail Gallery. One of the band members (more on them in a minute) also serenaded us with a little ukulele number at our table while we ate.

 

Sweet treats. From top: East Neuk Street made from Gingerbread and Dessert, both by Sucre Coeur for Crail Food Festival 2013

Wine was provided by the St Andrews Wine Company (www.standrewswinecompany.com), who have a great wine shop in Bell Street, St Andrews. They select wines to have labelled as their "house white" and "house red". They were also manning the bar and doing a great trade in beer from the St Andrews Brewing Company (www.standrewsbrewingcompany.com), who created Crail Ale for a previous year's Crail Food Festival. It was so popular that they kept making it and it recently won a craft beer competition and will be available in Sainsbury's supermarket so more of us can get to enjoy it! Unsurprisingly that night the Crail Ale had completely sold out but R and I enjoyed the IPA instead and it went down very well indeed. 

 

Dinner over and bellies full, it was now time for the music to begin. If, like me, you loved the soundtrack of quirky George Clooney film "O brother where art thou?" you would have loved the first local Fife band who took to the stage: Black Cat Jook Band. They transported us from Crail to the Deep South with their madcap bluesy sounds, even making what seemed to be a box with a stick and a piece of string into a quivering, deep bass. It was utterly impossible not to tap your feet along. 



From left: Black Cat Jook Band, King Creosote's Band and Crail Ale

  

Then it was time for a second local band with a bigger reputation: King Creosote (www.kingcreosote.com). With one of the band members hailing from Crail it was definitely a home crowd for them. They masterfully entertained us with a more mainstream sound, including a song about Crail which had the dance floor packed. The atmosphere was great.

When King Creosote's band finished their set on a climatic high the party was over. Off we went, weary but happy, to get some rest ready for Festival Day 2! My Part 2 blog is coming soon with all the details! .

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2013

The Jewel of the Forth - a nature-lover's day trip to the Isle of May

You can't really miss the Isle of May if you visit the East Neuk of Fife. It dominates the seascapes, enticing the eye and inspiring countless artists. It lights up the sea after dark with its twinkling lighthouse. It is always there, seeming to ask: "Aren't you curious about me?", "Don't you want to find out more about me?". There's something so timless and romantic about an island and visiting them is always a little adventure. All islands have a magical and romantic allure in my book but none more so than an uninhabited one - the Isle of May has no permanent inhabitants. Or at least no human ones. It's a national nature reserve with some serious credentials - it's home to up to a quarter of a million birds and the largest grey seal colony on the east coast of Britain (2,000 seal pups each Autumn). Volunteers work there for part of the year, studying and counting the wildlife. With daily sailings from Anstruther harbour from March to September it's also an accessible adventure for a day out.

My first trip to the May was summer 2011. I loved it but wanted to return in Spring to try and see the puffins, who were absent on that trip. I'd seen puffins on tiny Staffa on the West Coast of Scotland and wanted to see more of these adorably colourful and quirky seabirds. But as we firmed up on a sailing date I started to worry that the puffins would be keeping a low profile. No doubt sick of questions, including from me on Twitter, about whether there were puffins to be seen yet this season, the Isle of May blog published a blogpost called "Yes we do have puffins"! This was heartening, however I was trying not to get my hopes up too much just in case it wasn't to be. 

On the day of sailing the weather couldn't have been better. Defying a forecast of cloudy conditions the sun was unmistakably out and the strong wind that has been a feature of recent months was having a day off. So far so good. The boat, called the May Princess, made its merry way out of Anstruther harbour, full of optimistic nature-spotters, including a school trip plus teachers. The trip takes around 50 minutes to an hour each way, costing £24 adult / £20 student / £12 child (tickets from the ticket office on Anstruther pier). For a faster ride take the RIB Osprey - 25 minutes each way, £25/£20/£12.

Sailing to the Isle of May, including RIB Osprey aka the fast boat (top left) and the larger May Princess

As we neared the island we started to see ever increasing numbers of puffins in the water near the boat and flying in their awkward way over us. I got pretty snap-happy, thinking this could be the best we get. However it quickly became clear that the best was still to come as we spotted lots of puffins on the island. Our skipper declared it to be the best day for weather AND puffins so far this year! Delighted, we skipped off the boat in search of nature's finest...and almost stepped on a poor lady eider duck, sitting on her nest to protect her eggs, right beside the path, very camouflaged. The reasons behind the warden's message to "stick to the paths" became very clear. Mrs Duck and her nest were OK though and the more noticeable Mr Duck was nearby. 



Male and Female Eider Ducks, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



 We reached the cliffs and our first group of puffins. Que about 50 million photos by me. After that we felt like we'd stepped into a nature programme due to the sheer volume of wildlife to be seen in quite a small area near the South Horn (where the island's biggest cliffs can be found). It was actually slightly surreal but really stunning. There were puffins left, right and centre plus all the other seabirds the May supports - diving gannets, distinctive cormorants, noisy gulls and kittiwakes, graceful Arctic terns, fulmars, razorbills and guillemots all nesting in different parts of the cliff face. Shy rabbits darted about in and out of burrows and the quietly determined eider ducks were all over the place. Looking down from the top of the cliff (where incidentally there are fabulous views of Bass Rock and Berwick Law on the other side of the water), grey seals and their pups swam playfully below in the glistening, translucent water. Sitting on a rock eating our packed lunches we soaked up some rays and had the chance just to listen to all the noises of nature. When we finally came out of this trance-like state we spoke to the warden, who had some environmental messages to relay, worrying that in 5-10 years time we'll have to travel to Norway to see puffins in the wild as their food sources dry up in this country due to global warming.

Puffins, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



With just an hour left until our departure (you get almost 3 hours on the island) it was time for a quick dash round the rest of the island. Luckily, we'd had more time to explore this more fully on our last visit, taking in the various lighthouses and interesting human history of the island (including smugglers and monks). Scotland's oldest lighthouse is here (The Beacon, 1636). The views from the Main Light (built by Stephenson in 1816) towards Fife were sublime that day, visibility being so good that you could make out the row of colourful houses all the way along at Fife Ness, beside the Crail Golfing Society clubhouse (not that R is a golfer or anything!). I have a romantic notion about staying overnight in Low Light some day, listening to the waves... 



Buildings of the Isle of May. From top left: Main Light, Low Light, South Horn, Beacon, Cute sign at the visitor toilets.



...But no time for that sort of day-dreaming - just time for a few more quick puffin pics then back to the boat to sail around the North side of the island, past curious, grey seals and dramatic rock formations before heading off towards the mainland again. We shared a cold beer from the May Princess shop while soaking up some more rays on deck as Anstruther edged nearer and nearer.

Grey seals basking and swimming, Isle of May, Firth of Forth, Scotland



It was a truly amazing experience, a taste of natural paradise right here in Scotland that will stay with us for a long time. My advice? Switch off the TV and see nature in the flesh with a trip out to the Isle of May.

Text and pictures copyright Sara Scott 2012 and 2013

50 scarecrows equals eccentric fun in gentile Elie

Elie and adjoining Earlsferry make up the most gentile and affluent village on Fife's East Neuk coast. They are blessed with a wonderful, sweeping beach, where cricket matches and watersports are a regular fixture. Many houses have their own private access directly onto the beach via little gates and staircases fixed to the sea wall. Those which don't have instead lavishly adapted their balconies, terraces and gardens to maximise that beautiful beach view. This is where Edinburgh Old Money has its spacious seaside holiday homes and everyone else wishes they did. The whole place exudes the confidence of knowing it's good-looking and expensive.

But for one weekend a year things get a bit eccentric, a bit quirky with the annual Elie Scarecrow Festival.

The 2013 event
In 2013 this happened on 3-6 May over a Bank Holiday weekend. This was only the second time the festival has been held. I heard via #ScotlandHour (which is a monthly hour on Twitter where people share what to do and where to go in Scotland) that other places in Scotland also do Scarecrow Festivals but this was the first one I'd been to.

Elie and Earlsferry Residents and business owners compete for the best scarecrow and this seems to encourage lots of creativity and effort. Visitors can purchase a scarecrow map from one of the shops and then tour round the villages to spot them all (around 50 this year), then identify their favourite. The villages are small enough to do this on foot, though if you're short on time / energy you could go for a drive-by approach. The carefully stuffed creations can be found in front gardens, in the street outside houses, shops and pubs, in parks and even hanging from windows and chimneys. This year they included Nixon, Bill Gates, the Statue of Liberty, Prince Charles, Old Tom Morris, a workman, a family on holiday, a pirate, a horse, a nurse and patient, a burglar, Paddington Bear (my favourite) and many more besides. They were very cleverly done with some wonderful details, like Bill Gates holding a paper iPad and iPod and the daddy of the holiday family lying on a lounger, reading "The Scarecrow Times". Many were funny, some cute and others slightly creepy, especially as the daylight faded and they started appearing menacingly out of the shadows.

The winner this year was a scarecrow version of The Flintstones - as announced in the Fife Today newspaper.

I enjoyed walking around spotting them all - it added an extra bit of quirky fun, something a bit different to what was already a great place for a Sunday afternoon stroll. Did you enjoy the festival this year?

Post-event refreshments
Mouth as dry and legs as limp as, well, a scarecrow after all that walking? There are plenty of options in Elie / Earlsferry for a drink and a bite to eat. We had a delicious dinner from the Specials menu at the lively Golf Tavern in Earlsferry. Then we went for a drink in its more famous sister pub, The Ship Inn, back in Elie right by the beach. Elie is also blessed with a Michelin-starred, but reportedly un-stuffy, restaurant called Sangster's.

What's on next?
The next events to look out for in Elie's up-market calendar of local events are The Ship Inn's cricket fixtures (throughout the summer) and the Elie Fayre (13 July 2013, 1pm at the Harbour).

And finally...

If you're desperate to recreate the Scarecrow Festival at home, how about this cute scarecrow kit!

Copyright © Sara Scott 2013

Tulip-tastic - a riot of colour with thousands of bulbs

The Cambo Estate annual Tulip Festival starts today, which they describe as "a riot of colour with thousands of bulbs". It runs 3-13 May in 2013 from 10am to 5pm daily. Cambo Estate is near Kingsbarns in the East Neuk of Fife (Tel - 01333 450054).

I'll be going along this year to see the amazing variety of tulips, carefully planted by droves of volunteers to light up Cambo's elegant walled garden with their vibrant colours. Think you've seen tulips before? These are not your average tulips - there are lots of unusual varieties, with jagged edges or stripes or very full heads. The last time I saw the walled garden it was very muted and wintry so I'm expecting this to be a much more uplifting experience, bringing hope of some Summer sunshine to come (fingers crossed!).

In the meantime I thought I'd share some of my photos of last year's Cambo Tulip Festival with you:

p.s. If you like this you might also be interested in the Cambo Rose Festival on 21 June to 7 July 2013.

Copyright Sara Scott 2012 (photos) and 2013 (text).

Auld Alliance, alive and cooking in the East Neuk!

My guest blog has now been published on the Crail Food Festival website! It's about La Petite Epicerie, a little French deli in Anstruther with an amazing mixture of local and continental products extraordinaire. You'll find it right here: Crail Food Festival Blog.

Don't forget that the festival is taking place 15-16 June 2013 - should be lots of fun for anyone who likes good food and drink!

Meercats, sharks and ice cream - a fun family day out in St Andrews, whatever the weather

You can read my first ever guest blog on the Visit St Andrews site (the official website for visitors to St Andrews, Scotland). It's about two family-friendly things to do whether it's rain or shine, snowy or fine: (1) the delights of the Aquarium (meerkats, sharks, Nemo and much more) and (2) St Andrews' famous ice cream emporium, B. Jannettas. You'll find it right here: Visit St Andrews Blog 

May 2013 update: The St Andrews Aquarium now has some news - it will be getting Humboldt Penguins on 23 May 2013. Lets hope the penguins like their new home in St Andrews and you enjoy seeing them!

Copyright Sara Scott 2013

Easter in the East Neuk



Easter chick



Are you lucky enough to be in or around the East Neuk of Fife this Easter holiday? If so, here's a selection of six local events to keep you and your family busy:

1. AN ENTIRE FESTIVAL DEVOTED TO CHOCOLATE - The Cocoa Tree cafe and shop in Pittenweem is running a Grand Festival of Chocolate, which is inspired by the best selling book Chocolat. This is my kind of festival! It includes a Grand Chocolate Treasure Hunt (throughout the festival - to enter the prize draw the deadline is 6pm on Easter Sunday), a Full Moon "Chocolat" Film Party (Wednesday 27 March 7pm), The Grand Chocolate Fayre and Weem Witch Tours (Thursday 28 March), The Grand Good Friday Dinner (Friday 29 March), Grand Finale of the Treasure Hunt and Raffle (Sunday 31 March 6pm) and finally Chocolate Workshops (Monday 1 April 10-12 children and 1-4 adults). (To reserve a space for any of these events contact sophie@thecocoatreeshop.com.)

2. FIND THE EASTER EGGS - Classic Easter weekend fun for the kids - join the Easter Egg Trail at National Trust Scotland's Kellie Castle (Saturday 30 March and Sunday 31 March 12-4, £2 per child).

3. PACK THE KIDS OFF FOR SOME FUN IN THE WOODS - Cambo Estate, Kingsbarns is running a one week Easter Woodland Club for children aged 6-13 (1-5 April or 8-12 April, 10am-4pm each day, £125 per week). The Club is all about having fun in the woods. It includes activities like building a den, cooking on the fire, making wooden things, playing games and watching wildlife (to book contact Chris Childe 01337 830621, chris.childe_education@yahoo.co.uk).

4. RACE A DUCK - On Easter Saturday (30 March, 10.30am) you can watch or even take part in the A.I.A. (Anstruther Improvements Association) annual duck race at the Dreel Burn in Anstruther. Everyone floats rubber ducks down the stream and the owner of the lucky winning duck wins a prize. Ducks cost £1 and can be bought in advance or on the day. Should be lots of fun!

5. SEE SOME ART - Pittenweem's famous arts festival doesn't kick off until August but Easter marks the annual Pittenweem Artists and Galleries weekend, when many of this very arty village's residents open their studies to show new work. Venues are open Friday 29 - Sunday 31 March (10am-5pm or 11am-4pm for the new ART@47 gallery space). Look out for the poster on the door.


Arty Pittenweem

6. RENACT THE COLD WAR (?) - For a slightly unusual Easter experience, Scotland's Secret Bunker will be having a re-enactment over Easter (Friday 29 - Sunday 31 March) with real Army soldiers at the gate to greet you, vehicle displays around the grounds and patrolling underground in the bunker in their full attire, complete with weapons for authenticity. The Bunker was the secret underground hideaway where Scotland's elite would have gone in the event of a nuclear attack in the Cold War era. It was kept secret, hiding below a farmhouse for 40 years. Today it's a unique tourist attraction.



Whatever you're doing this Easter I hope you have a great time! If you know of any other great East Neuk Easter events please share them by leaving a comment. Right, I'm off to get stuck into some Easter eggs now...



First signs of Spring at Rose Cottage!



Text and Photos Copyright Sara Scott 2013

5 great things to do in the East Neuk right now

Do you think that February/ March is not a good time to holiday in Scotland? Think again - there's lots to do at this time of year in the East Neuk of Fife. Here are 5 ideas:

1. CATCH THE SNOWDROPS IN BLOOM - you may have missed the Snowdrops by Starlight event but the famous snowdrops at the Cambo Estate are still making an appearance by daylight and they are gorgeous! The sheer volume of them creates a lovely effect, especially alongside the Cambo burn. The unusual varieties near the house are also worth a look for their delicate perfection (there are over 350 varieties of snowdrops at Cambo). You can also buy snowdrops from the plant shop in the hope of recreating Cambo at home (I'm not known for my survival rate with plants so let's see how my efforts in the Rose Cottage garden go!).

Kids love to see the Cambo piglets as well and I must admit I did too - they have bags of energy, charging about, play fighting and eating.  (Cambo Estate, Near Kingsbarns; Open daily 10-5)



Piglets at Cambo

2. BUY LOCAL - have yourself a cheese board with the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheddar and Anster Red cheeses from the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company. The shop there also has quality Scottish produce such as the posh, award-winning Summer Harvest rapeseed oil, which I suppose is Scotland's answer to olive oil (from £4). We took some of this to dinner with friends and it got plaudits for being something different, with a nice smoothness and subtlety, for dipping bread into. There's also a tearoom at the cheese farm where you can enjoy homemade cheese scones, cheese toasties, cakes etc, while enjoying the views over the fields and out to the Isle of May. It's a nice child-friendly place for lunch or a daytime snack in the country, with the chance to learn about how the cheese is made. (St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company, Falside Farm, Near Anstruther & Pittenweem; Tel: 01333-312580)

 



Ratatouille & goats cheese tart Fresh basil & pine nut pesto

3. EAT LOCAL FOOD AT THE PITTENWEEM INN - R and I recently tried this family-run restaurant out for the first time and we were impressed. Chef Brian Murphy does great things with fresh, seasonal local produce, including a weekly market menu. Prices are reasonable, service is friendly, the dining room inviting (with local art on the walls) and the atmosphere nice and informal. My mouth still waters when I look at this picture of the appetising goats' cheese starter from the a la carte menu (OK all this talk of cheese is really making me hungry now!). If you haven't been yet, you definitely owe it to your taste buds to pay a visit ASAP. (Pittenweem Inn, 42 Charles Street, Pittenweem; Tel: 01333 311326, Thu-Sun only)

4. PUT A LITTLE BIRDHOUSE IN YOUR SOUL - Susie Lacombe at the Crail Gallery has made a new batch of birdhouses shaped like historic Crail houses for 2013 (£40 each). I was lucky enough to be in the Gallery when she was painting them (with Farrow and Ball paint no less) so I even got to have a say in the design process of mine! Susie told me that birds look for a mate round about Valentine's day so now is definitely the time to do your bit for birdlife and put a birdhouse in your garden. Speaking of birds, daily boat trips from Anstruther to the Isle of May kick off for 2013 on 29 March, so it will soon be puffin-spotting season. (Crail Gallery, High Street, Crail; Tel: 01333 450316; Open 10-5 Mon-Sat & 12-5 Sun)



5. ENJOY A UNIQUE EVENT - Go to Scotland's only regular poetry festival - StAnza in St Andrews (6-10 March). It's international in outlook and was founded 15 years ago. Then there's the Fife Science Festival, also in St Andrews, at venues including the Castle and University (15-25 March). You could also plan ahead by booking tickets for the ninth East Neuk Festival (3-7 July) now before the events sell out. The Scotsman newspaper said the festival "promises more big names in intimate surroundings...so book ahead". I'm looking forward to experiencing it for the first time this year. For more details on these and other events see the Events page of this blog.

Like I said, lots to do so what are you waiting for?

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2013.





Valentine's Day in the East Neuk & St Andrews

Here are my tips for how to spend a truly romantic Valentine's day with your loved one in the East Neuk of Fife and St Andrews. All you need to do is follow these four fail-safe steps:

STEP 1: GET SOME FRESH SEA AIR - Take a romantic stroll, walking hand in hand along the beautiful Kingsbarns beach. Perhaps you'll see the twinkle of the Bell Rock lighthouse way out to sea or even a dolphin or two. Or if you are a sporty couple you could up the pace and go for an invigorating jog, running side by side along St Andrews' iconic West Sands beach, humming the theme to "Chariots of Fire" as you go. Ahh that fresh Scottish air!

STEP 2: SWEETS FOR MY SWEET - Have coffee, homemade tablet and cake with two spoons alfresco at the Crail Harbour Gallery. As you hold hands, pause from gazing dreamily into each others' eyes for just long enough to look over to the Isle of May. It's a view which has inspired countless artists. Or if rain is threatening to extinguish those fires of passion (well we are in Scotland after all), take shelter in The Cocoa Tree, a French-style chocolate shop and cafe in the nearby village of Pittenweem. With chocolate being an aphrodisiac you can't really go wrong in here. Magnifique!

STEP 3: REELLLLLLAAAX - Warm up and ease those tense muscles from your earlier exertions by basking together in the outdoor, rooftop pool of The Old Course hotel spa in St Andrews. Maybe throw a little back massage in for good measure. Then ease yourselves out of this bliss and get changed into something alluring, ready for pre-dinner cocktails overlooking golf courses and town at the hotel's elegant, classy Road Hole bar. Bag yourselves the seats by the open fire. Mine's a Flirtini!

STEP 4: DINNER DATE - Hail a trusty taxi and whisk your loved one off for an intimate, candlelit dinner for two at The Peat Inn. Hopefully you've saved your pennies (and booked ahead) for an indulgent, magnificent dinner at this five star, fine dining restaurant in the country. It's dimly lit, suitably expensive and a sensuous feast for the taste buds. If you haven't done it yet, now's an ideal time to pop that question! (Or if there's no room at the Inn / on your credit card check out Hazel of www.thegrumblingtummy.org 's blog on the Visit St Andrews site for more valentine's dining options.)

However you choose to spend it, have a very happy Valentine's.

xxx

p.s. Do you have a favourite romantic place in the East Neuk and St Andrews that I haven't mentioned? If so, why not share it by leaving a comment.

Top left is the Isle of May; Bottom right is The Swilken Bridge, famous St Andrews landmark

Text and photos copyright Sara Scott 2013.