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Monday, 27 August 2012

Best coastal walk in the East Neuk

Here's my favourite walk along the Fife Coastal Path. In a remarkably short amount of time it shows you 3 picturesque East Neuk villages, constant beautiful views across the Firth of Forth, several gorgeous beaches, 2 castles, 1 windmill, 1 tower, 1 lighthouse and lots of rabbits and birds! 2013 Update: And don't just take my word for it either - the Independent has included the Lower Largo to St Monans part of the Fife Coastal Path in its 10 best coastal walks in the UK. This walk is part of that (longer) walk.

The walk starts in the village of Pittenweem and ends up in the village of Elie, passing through the tiny village of St Monans along the way. It takes about an hour and a half, depending on your pace and it ends where all the best Scottish walks do - in a pub! It is not a difficult walk and is relatively flat. I think it's best done late in the lovely evening light.

Practicalities:
You can drive to Pittenweem and then get the bus back from Elie or take the bus to Pittenweem and then bus back from Elie, depending on where you're based etc. If you're like me you will not be able to resist taking lots of photos along the way so bring your camera. Bring a raincoat too - just in case as the only thing that is predictable about the Scottish weather is that it is unpredictable!

The walk: 
When you arrive in Pittenweem make your way down to the harbour and simply follow this round to get to the Coastal Path at West Shore. Pittenweem is a lovely village and has Fife's only working fishing harbour.


St Monans Salt Pan Windmill, Fife Coastal Path

There is only a short distance between Pittenweem and St Monans as the two villages are practically joined together. Before you get to St Monans you will probably see some rabbits before passing by my favourite landmark on this walk, the St Monans Salt Pan Windmill (pictured).
  
The windmill has been restored. It was once used to pump seawater into the adjacent salt pans and fossil rich limestone beds.

The walk then passes through the tiny village of St Monans. I really like St Monans - it has a lovely off-the-beaten-track feel to it and is really chilled-out. If you feel like spending more time here you could eat in a nice fine dining restaurant at the west end of the harbour - Craig Millar @ 16 West End: http://www.16westend.com/craig-millar. The walk passes by this restaurant. At the historic St Monans Church (14th century) there is a diversion to the path if it is high tide. If it's not high tide you go to the left of the church. Look back and you will see this wonderful view of St Monans with Pittenweem and Anstruther beyond...


St Monans Church and East Neuk village view
The section of the walk between St Monans and Elie is great. You pass by the ruins of two castles - Ardross Castle (1370) and Newark Castle (15th century) - and a 16th century doocot. As well as history there is natural beauty too, in the form of sublime beaches...



What's more they are remarkably deserted - we got the whole beach to ourselves.

Approaching Lady's Tower, outside Elie on the Fife Coastal Path
You'll then start to see the next landmark from a distance. This is Ladies Tower (pictured).

I think it is quite romantic! It was built in 1760 for Lady Janet Anstruther as a summer house. She liked to swim in the sea here (maybe it was warmer then!). The views from here over the Forth Estuary are particularly stunning. Look out for Bass Rock in the distance, near North Berwick.
Elie Lighthouse, Fife Coastal Path

Just past the Tower there there is one final historic landmark, Elie Lighthouse (1908) (pictured).
 
The path crosses Shepherd's Knowe next and then Ruby Bay, which is famous for the red garnet once found here. There are lovely views across Elie and over to the adjoining village of Earlsferry. When we were there it was made even more picturesque by some kitesurfers...


Follow the curve of the bay and you will then arrive at your destination, The Ship Inn.

The Ship Inn - a beach-side pub in Elie

This is a traditional pub with good food and is very popular with the people of Elie (many of who are holiday-home owners from Edinburgh) and visitors too. It's right opposite the beach and you can sit outside in their beer garden if the weather is nice. They even hold cricket matches on the beach some days during the Summer.
You have completed the walk - now time for a refreshing drink!

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