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Friday, 19 October 2012

Celeb & golf extravaganza at the Dunhill Links

We hadn't really planned it like this but a week's holiday at Rose Cottage ended up coinciding with the annual Alfred Dunhill Links Championship and this actually became a real highlight of the week. If you're a golf fan you will absolutely love this opportunity to see some of big pro names' swings and putts in the flesh. If like me you think a bogey is something you would find up your nose it's still a great event for the celeb-spotting! 

This is a 4 day event where professional golfers pair up with amateurs - many of them celebrities from the worlds of sport, music and film. Over three days the competitors play a round on each of three famous Scottish links golf courses - The Old Course, Carnoustie and Kingsbarns. The best professionals and teams then play a final round on day 4 at the Old Course. The first three days are FREE for spectators to attend (including free parking at Kingsbarns). Tickets for the final day, the Sunday, are £15 for adults (£10 for OAPs and free for students and under 16s - its also possible to get free tickets e.g. by wearing visible tartan or buying something at the Farmers Market on the Saturday). There are gourmet food stalls, toilets etc and, in St Andrews anyway, lots of scope for some post golf drinks should you feel the urge e.g. at the Dunvegan Hotel (at the end of Golf Place) - we saw some of the Day 1 star players here.

We spent our first day at St Andrews where we based ourselves mainly at the 14th and 15th holes. The air was cold but with some welcome sunny spells. First up we saw Ian Botham (pictured) in a fetching neon green jumper and a pair of patterned trousers which had to be seen to be believed, topping the whole ensemble off with a cigar. He stopped to speak to his son Liam who was playing on the 4th. Botham senior was playing in the same group as Shane Warne (and I believe his wife Liz Hurley came to watch him play the next day at Carnoustie). Then came a group with Scottish sporting legends Gavin Hastings and Alan Hansen (commentating on his fellow players' performances). Staying at the same spot we also saw US Vice President Dan Quayle (my partner joked that his swing was "almost presidential"), Bon Jovi drummer Tico Torres and two more ex-footballers Johan Cruyff and Ruud Gullit. We finished the day by following ex-footballer Jamie Redknapp's group's game to the 18th. After a fantastic drive to about 40 yards from the pin at the 18th he rather strangely (I'm told) decided to use his putter from the fairway rather than chip onto the green. After putting to about 8 feet from the hole and receiving a round of applause, he turned to the crowd smiling and admitted he was "a scaredy cat really - I went through the back of the green the last two years I played".     

By day two, this time at Kingsbarns, my partner quipped that it was like being on some sort of celebrity safari, with household names popping up behind every bush. With the sun splitting the sky we had arrived to see Paul Lawrie, fresh from the European team's Ryder Cup success, teeing off on the 1st. The Scot was partnered with his young son Craig. Then we saw actor Bill Murray (making chicken noises) and singer Huey Lewis. Later at the 5th Huey accidentally hit his ball while doing a practice swing at the tee. It went into the rough just to the side of the tee and Bill Murray's pro partner David Howell was winding Huey up that he had to hit it from there. Huey sportingly went to do just that, with Murray saying to the crowd: "Ladies and gentleman - Huey Lewis - what a sportsman". Howell then 'fessed up that he didn't have to.

We also saw Colin Montgomerie and Sir Steve Redgrave (pictured) on the 5th - a team who went on to end the day on an impressive 12 under par - and also the actor Greg Kinnear (pictured).

A highlight for me and a lot of excited kids was seeing the Olympian and Paralympian group - US swimming legend, the giant Michael Phelps and the Bladerunner himself, South African Oscar Pistorius. We were within inches of Pistorius when he had to move the barrier to take a shot in the rough on the 5th. Earlier in the day Phelps' pro partner Paul Casey had apparently had his ball stolen on the green by an over-enthusiastic dog!

We also saw a jovial Ernie Els, a giant of a man, who had won the Open earlier this year. His fellow South African partner Johann Rupert said to him at the start of the 3rd "you birdie this one and I'll get the next!".

My partner enjoyed getting up really close (right behind the tee) to see the incredible speed and accuracy of the pros driving. Often it was impossible to see the ball at all - just a whooshing sound high up in the air. I enjoyed the celeb-spotting and the light-hearted atmosphere - the players seemed to be really enjoying themselves and having a bit of banter with each other and the crowd. Though I imagine things might get more competitive on the final day!

We finished off by quaffing some Rob Roy burgers and getting the programme signed by two pros: Dustin Johnson (from the American Ryder Cup team) and Northern Irish golfer (and possible future Ryder Cup captain - though he wasn't giving anything away to the press on that) Darren Clarke.

The 2012 event was won by a South African pro, Branden Grace, who had led right from Day One - click here for the full results. Looking forward to next year's event already!

Wednesday, 10 October 2012

Eating out in St Andrews - award-winning Thai food

Xav and I had apparently arrived in St Andrews at a bad time to get a table in a restaurant. We had arrived in a happy-go-lucky style on a very merry bus from Crail (thanks to a singing stag party), with nothing booked. We're notoriously last minute types so this wasn't unusual. It was however turning out to be a problem, in fact more like a complete disaster. It was the busiest time of the busiest day of the week (8pm on a Saturday night) in late September when the students were back, filling up the town once more. We had trekked all round the centre twice, trying for a table at about 10 different restaurants including all of our old favourites and some others too. One by one they had unceremoniously rejected us. I was starting to feel forlorn, unwanted, ostracised and quite frankly sore of foot. Starvation seemed to be a very real possibility. Panic was setting in.

Just when I was on the verge of giving up all hope, in the light of the Harvest Moon, at the end of Market Street we spied Nahm-Jim and the L'Orient Lounge (62 Market Street, tel: 01334 470000). Is it any good though?, I whispered. We hadn't heard of it before but Xav mentioned that a friend had said something about a really good Thai restaurant in St Andrews. This was music to my ears as I've been fond of Thai food ever since a great girlie back-packing holiday in Thailand in my early twenties. It turns out the Nahm-Jim won a Gordon Ramsay award for best independent Thai restaurant in the UK in 2010.

So we tried our luck. They were full too but could fit us in a little later. Xav's eye had been caught earlier by a nearby pub - The Criterion on South Street- showing The Ryder Cup on TV so we went there to lend our support to the European team who were struggling at that point. The pub was busy with a mix of people from both sides of the Atlantic but we managed to score a table with a TV view and have a couple of pints while we were waiting for our table. Result!

It was soon time to go back to the Nahm-Jim. After some negotiation I managed to drag Xav away from the Guinness and golf charms of The Criterion. Our table was in the downstairs section of the restaurant, which seemed to be a sort of overflow for the bustling, bigger and more traditional space upstairs. Never one to like being short-changed I worried that these were the cheap seats - was upstairs better? I cast my eye over the modern Oriental decor and rested my gaze on some photos on canvas of deserted palm-fringed beaches that made me forget about upstairs and long to be a twenty-something and back-packing around Thai beaches again. The clientele may well have spent the summer doing just that, being mainly couples of fresh-faced students on what seemed to be date-night.

Nahm-Jim is not just about Thailand though. It actually has separate Thai and Japanese menus. Although a quick peek at the Japanese one showed promise, we both opted for the Thai menu. I suspect the majority of people do the same. From a choice of lots of appetising starters one fusion dish from the specials board stood out from the crowd: the Nahm-Jim Famous Thai Style Haggis. It turned out to be balls of haggis wrapped in crispy pastry with a sweet chilli sauce. Tasty and a nice twist on the more common Thai starters.

Fusion dish - where Scotland meets Thailand!
2 menus
Our mains - Panang and Yellow Curry
For mains I went for the Chicken Yellow Curry (tender chicken breast cooked in coconut milk with a delicate mix if herbs, onions, cherry tomatoes and pineapple) and coconut rice. My spice-loving partner had the Beef Panang Curry (tender pieces of beef sautéed in mixed chilli pastes, cooked in coconut milk and served with shredded kafir lime leaves) and sticky rice. Both were tasty, with mine having a nice sweetness and his having a bit of spice. However I did have the feeling that we should perhaps have been more adventurous with our choice of mains to get to taste the best of this place.
Our mains
Yellow Curry
We washed it all down with a lovely bottle of 2009 Selvapiana Chianti.

The service was prompt and friendly. Overall we enjoyed it and were impressed by the place. On an autumn night when everywhere else was too busy, a table in the only Thai restaurant in St Andrews could so easily have been forgettable. Not so. The award-winning food, commitment to authenticity (ingredients are shipped in weekly from the markets of Bangkok) and energy of Nahm-Jim put it on the foodie map. It's great to discover another St Andrews delight for the taste buds and a restaurant that's a bit different. I would recommend it to visitors to St Andrews and will definitely be going back to try out the upstairs section and sample some more tasty things from the menus. Maybe I'll even book this time!